2021 - Bonnie's Journey to Antarctica

 

Antarctica Journal

November 18, 2021   Departure day. 

Cruise cost $9.498 pp. Total (cruise only) $18,996 Travel insurance $1750   Flights  $1430

Up at 1:00 AM to meet John, our shuttle driver for 2:30 AM pickup. We had three flights: to LA, to Orlando, international to Ushuira, Argentina.

Airport arrival and check in went smoothly. We waited nearly 2 hours for 5:45 boarding of a 6:30 flight to LA. We had upgraded seats to business class, and they were comfortable. Good decision. We arrived at LA with more than an hour layover, so had breakfast before boarding for Orlando. Boarding went well. We were served breakfast on the plane!

We were able to sleep some on the flight to Orlando, but arrival there was chaotic. We were swarmed at baggage claim by the Atlas staff. They repeatedly wanted to see all our documents. We had labels on our bags with cabin numbers to get them delivered once on the ship. We took the elevator up to the higher level for COVID testing and boarding our international flight, again showing all our documents. The clerk seemed unfamiliar with the forms and could not find what she needed, so I pointed the form out to her. We received boarding passes and checked luggage before reporting to the COVID testing room, which was difficult to find because of poor signage. We had arranged for appointments for the tests and again staff had to review our documents to prove we had appointments.

We both had nasal swabs done and sat waiting for the quick test results. We were both negative, so were allowed into the next room for snacks and a beverage.  Heidi and David were already there.

Since we had flown clear across the US to get here, we were among the last to arrive in Orlando, so were in the snack room only briefly before heading to security to board the plane. I did not realize we would go through security again, so had to toss a bottle of water I had saved for the plane.

We were disappointed with the seats on the chartered international flight because we had paid for upgrades and there was no such seating on this plane. We had a restless night in the uncomfortable seats, however staff were attentive and even found a way to charge David’s hearing aids while we flew overnight. We had tea and coffee and a snack but slept poorly. We were tired when we deplaned and again had to show documents, then boarded the bus for a city tour while we waited to board the ship.

Victoria was our tour guide on the bus. She spoke English well and was so happy to be working after the long COVID shut down. We were handed a map of Ushuaia and drove to the old airport, where she pointed out the crosswind runway, a hazard in times past. We drove through downtown and a regional park, getting off to take photos. We saw the train which is considered the southernmost functioning railway in the world.

We had lunch of lamb, potatoes and a salad bar with ice cream and berries for dessert. David discovered he had lost his money clip.

 November 19, Arrival-embarkation Day.

 Atlas, the cruise company, required proof of COVID vaccination to even register for the trip. We also had to get a long term COVID test in AZ just before we left. We had to register these results online with immigration in Argentina. We got a short term COVID test at the Orlando airport before boarding the international flight to Ushuaia, Argentina where we were transported into town for a brief city tour before we boarded the ship.

We struggled with documentation in Orlando because we had so many COVID test reports and related documents including Argentina-issued documents to admit us to the country, that we never knew which one the next agent wanted to see. I shuffled a folder full of paper over and over, fully frustrated. Even while boarding the ship, there was still a long check-in line as other passengers struggled with the same problem. There was a fierce cold wind as we stood outside waiting our turn to board. We showed our multiple documents to the first staff member, then again to the next, then finally a third time! David lost patience. The ship nurse came and did a temperature check and took an oxygen level reading.

We were so relieved to finally be allowed to go to our cabin. Whew! David unpacked while I showered. We attended a welcome briefing and learned there would be a 24-hour weather-related delay in the ship’s departure. There was a big storm coming in.

This ship was a luxury ship for sure, with every on-board amenity, restaurants and bars, a spa, fitness studio, shops, a medical office, auditorium, jogging track, snack shop, you name it. We had not only a cabin maid, but also a butler!

We had dinner with Anne and Fran, our friends from the local branch of the American Association of University Women. Also at our table were long term friends and travel buddies David and Heidi. We finally got back in our cabin about 9:00 pm. The butler knocked on our door and handed David his money clip!! How they figured that out we never did know. It must have been found on the tour bus. We celebrated but were exhausted and crashed!

November 20, 2021

The bed is very comfortable, and we asked for 2 pillows each, so we’re set. We slept long and hard trying to catch up on sleep lost in transit.

 I forgot to set the alarm. We were saved by the bell so to speak when the ships PA system blares final notice for a Tour departure. We are scheduled for the tour to Terra del Fuego National Park so have 15 minutes. We bolt out of bed, scrambling to get dressed and find our warm outerwear.

We have designated a spot in our cabin as a staging area for our cruise ID and 😷 masks. We grabbed them and then David remembered hearing aids. He got them on, and we rushed down to a deck below to the departure area. Fortunately, we arrived in time to join the line exiting the ship-whew! We carry our IDs in a plastic sleeve on a lanyard, which is convenient because we must always have them with us on the ship. (Too bad we did not have something so convenient for all our travel documents.) We exited the ship and boarded the bus. This day tour was planned for us at the last minute because the ship was delayed leaving.

Our tour guide was originally from France but has been speaking Spanish here in Ushuaia for years, so her double accent made it hard to understand her English. But good for her to speak three languages! Tierra del Fuego “Land of Fire” was discovered by Ferdinand Magellan in 1520, when he sailed through the strait eventually named after him. The archipelago Tierra del Fuego, separated from the mainland by the Straight of Magellan, is a triangle with its base on the Beagle Channel.

Side note, the Beagle Channel is named for the ship, the H.M.S. Beagle, which Darwin was on. The ship was named for the Beagle dogs owned by the Queen of England.

The rugged peaks on Tierra del Fuego are a prolongation of the Andes, with peaks exceeding 7,000 feet elevation. The Andes run north and South through most of South America, but curve sharply at the southern end of Argentina so that they run east and west. The Cordillera Darwin in the southwestern part of the main island contains many glaciers that reach the ocean. The archipelago boasts of wildlife like sea lions, whales, penguins and guanacos.

Tierra del Fuego National Park is 150,000 acres of preserved space. It is a beautiful area established and protected in 1960 and has dramatic scenery, waterfalls, forests, mountains and glaciers with breathtaking flora and fauna. There are many hiking trails and camp sites. The park is also the end point of the Pan American Highway which runs from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego. On our tour today, we took pictures of the highway end point sign.

We drove through Ushuaia learning more of the city’s history on our way to the park. We stopped briefly so our tour guide could buy our tickets to the park.

The forest is very thick with Beech trees, which have slender trunks and are non-deciduous. There are few animals native to the area. Rabbits and beaver have been introduced and both have become nuisances. We stopped for photos of the large lakes and other scenic spots but did not stay outside for long as a sharp wind was blowing, and it was snowing off and on.

The snow-capped Andes rise above, and the guide pointed out some that were across the border in Chile.

We arrived back at the ship at 1:00 for a delicious buffet lunch. Always gregarious Heidi had of course, connected with a couple of staff who ate with us. David visited with Pablo from Australia. Pablo is tall and thin with a long ponytail of dreadlocks. Emma from Alaska talked with me and Heidi. 

At 3:30 we went to a presentation about Antarctica by an oceanographer Ed Sobey. 

Antarctica is a continent. (The Arctic is an ocean). Antarctica is the 5th largest continent and is larger than the whole US. Ed makes his living teaching about oceans and weather and is an amazing speaker. (Never mind that he and his wife sailed their own yacht solo across the Pacific!) At 5:00 we were entertained by a group of talented folklore musicians and dancers in full costume. David absolutely loved this and said this show alone made the trip worthwhile.

At 6:30 we had the daily debriefing to learn that we will get underway Sunday at 8:00 am traveling the morning through Beagle Channel before entering Drake Passage about noon. Note that we are remaining in port an extra day because the huge storm coming in will create 30-foot waves! They said the ship can handle that, but not the passengers!

 They said the water would be very rough and for us to stow everything, so nothing is broken by the rolling of the ship. Oh, joy!

Breakfast and lunch are self-service buffet, and dinner is more formal, ordering from the menu. I was always amazed at the outstanding food and such ample supplies. How in the middle of Antarctica in the middle of COVID, did the crew manage to find the best watermelon I ever tasted! We had a lovely evening dinner with Lisa and Michel. He is French and serves as the ship photographer. They met online and have been married 9 years.

We showed Heidi and David our cabin and we looked at theirs before turning in.

Big day tomorrow!

Nov 21

Because of jet lag, I couldn’t fall asleep last night so read until 1:30 and then was able to sleep.

We woke about 7:30, dressed and went to buffet breakfast.

The ship began cruising about 8:00 so we watched our ship move through the Beagle Channel.

We walked on the upper deck to feel the fresh air. It was pleasant with the sun peeking through. The wind was not blowing, so we were comfortable without a coat. We chatted with Dr Sobey before going to the 10:00 briefing where we learned about how to protect the Antarctic environment and got trained on how to board and disembark the zodiacs.

We are sailing on the Beagle Channel headed toward the open ocean which we expect will be very rough. I changed my motion sickness patch this morning and pray that it will be enough to keep me well. I also plan to lie down. There won’t be much to see except the giant waves and moving around the ship will be difficult and unsteady. David has never had a problem with motion sickness so expects to be ok.

We are being called by room number to go to the mud room on Deck 3 so staff can inspect our waterproof pants. The ship will furnish muck boots and an outerwear heavy parka, so we will be getting them fitted as well and placing them in our assigned locker in the mud room.

Dr Ed Sobey will be speaking at 2:30 for a talk about Antarctica and the Drake Passage. There is another lecture on birds at 4:00. And a 6:00 recap of the day. I don’t know whether I will feel well enough to be able at attend these and certainly do not plan to attend the captain’s welcome cocktail at 6:30.

November 22

No journal today as I am too sick with motion sickness and remained in bed. Maybe the worst case of motion sickness I’ve ever had. David downloaded books before we left so this is reading time for him.

November 23

We woke up near Half Moon Island, which lies in the entrance to Moon Bay, between Livingston and Greenwich Islands. The 1.2-mile-long island is crescent-shaped and home to approximately 3.300 breeding pairs of chinstrap penguins. Antarctic terns, skuas, kelp gulls, Wilson’s storm-petrels and blue-eyed shags also breed at this site. Fur seals are often present on the beaches, along with occasional Weddell or elephant seal.

Blessed to be in calm waters, I can actually get up and walk around, though feeling weak and dehydrated, and I'm no longer nauseated. I begin to slowly drink water. It sits ok.

We dress in layers. I start with silk underwear, then long Johns, leggings and jeans. I will put on a vest and waterproof pants when we get ready to board the zodiac. Top it off with a parka then life jacket.

We went to breakfast. I chose oatmeal and tea. David has not been affected by motion sickness so ate hearty.

I chatted with another passenger about the bulky layers, and she says it is like the Michelin Man.

Back in our cabin I lie down hoping breakfast will set well. So far so good.

We pack a bag with some laundry. We get one day of free laundry service, and this is it.

I change my motion sickness patch. With as sick as I have been, I don’t have much confidence that they help. I have been supplementing with Dramamine although I suppose I should not be doing that.

After breakfast we wait in our cabin for our Zodiac group to be called to go ashore. We take pictures from our balcony, and I rest. We are the last group called.  We are the Albatross group.

Description of a zodiac tour:

Atlas takes you closer to your environment as you embark on one of 12 custom-made Zodiacs made for World Navigator. Cruising Antarctic coasts, your knowledgeable experts guide you through the continent’s many wonders. As your Zodiac driver navigates the waters, he may sometimes cut the engine to stop and listen to the natural sounds that surround you. At first, you might think it’s all silence, but if you focus, the cries of snow petrels echo in the distance. You may encounter marine wildlife while out on the water, so focus on the soft but distinct rush of water and watch for the bubbles just before a breach. This is an essential excursion that truly gives you a pure feeling of triumphant exploration. What a terrific introduction to the Antarctic.

We look at the scenic view at Half Moon Bay and take photos.

We pull on our outerwear and head to the mud room to get into boots, parka, and life vest. Now we can waddle like the penguins (or maybe astronauts) down the hall to the Zodiac boarding area. We had a video briefing yesterday so know how and where to step down into the Zodiac. We use the fisherman’s grip for extra security. All goes well. Before we head out the driver tells us what to do if someone falls overboard.

It is a short way to the beach, and we disembark one by one onto the rocky coastline. There are penguins all over calling to each other because it is mating season. They sound a lot like turkeys.  We walk up the snowy path to the top of the rise taking photos as we go. The path gets steeper, and my hiking buddy Anne offers me a hand for the last few steps. There are a few fur seals lying about and we watch one move upward inching along on his stomach. The landscape is spectacular.

 

A guide from Scotland told us more about penguins. She knows her stuff. These penguins are called chin strap because of a small row of black feathers under the chin.

 

We got our turn on the returning Zodiac with a quick trip detour past more penguins before disembarking back onto the ship. Getting into and out of all the layers is hard work, and we will be going out again this afternoon. We rest in the cabin for a while before heading for lunch.

We came back ahead of David and Heidi. Our maid was cleaning, and we tried to stay out of her way. She is from Philippines and expressed her sincere appreciation that we are traveling so she can have a job. She says too many people can’t find work. She wiped down everything, even the walls, including the furniture on our deck.

The Roupps return and we agree to go to lunch together.

My stomach is still a little fragile. I had oatmeal for breakfast, and it set ok. I was a little braver at lunch with some fruit and a small slice of cheese-stuffed meatloaf. I passed up dessert, but on the way back to our cabins, David Roupp, always the cookie-lover, led us by the grab-and go station for a cookie.

After lunch, I napped for a while, still not 100%. An announcement woke me to learn we are headed into Whaler’s Bay aka Deception Island. We passed through a narrow break in the caldera wall called Neptune’s Bellows. This is an active volcano! 

Whaler’s Bay is the first bay inside Port Foster as you pass through Neptune’s Bellows at Deception Island. It was given its name by the French explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot due to the whaling activities undertaken in this bay in the 1900’s. This bay was an active whaling processing plant until the whales were gone and the volcano erupted in 1867. Now the beach is strewn with collapsed and rusting whale-processing buildings.

We watched from on deck as we entered the bay. The scenery was spectacular but a howling wind brought snow to cloud visibility. We all huddled inside with other passengers and occasionally stepped into the wind for photos.

While we were inside staff set up afternoon tea, with a wide assortment of teas and little pastries. Cozy indeed. David enjoyed happy hour.

 

Heidi was always on the move, socializing, and suggested we have dinner with a couple she met. Fine by us.

Our call came to get on the Zodiac, we went first this time because we were last before.

Down to the mud room to layer up again. Putting on gear is difficult because it is crowded and because we all struggle to get on the waterproof boots, heavy parkas, and life vests. It is a real workout.

 

After getting on and off the Zodiac this morning, we are a bit more accustomed to the procedure, using the “fisherman’s hold” of each gripping the others arm as we transfer in a three-step system. Step onto the side of the Zodiac, then onto a wooden step inside to Zodiac, and finally onto the Zodiac floor. We sit on the edge sliding along to make room for the next person.

It is a short ride to the beach, and we are free to walk around for an hour and learn more of the whaling history. There is steam from the volcano leaking up around the edges of the lake. It smells of sulfur.

We see a couple of seals and a few penguins. The beach is littered with long red strands of seaweed looking stuff. They tell us it is cooked (from the volcano) invertebrates including brittle stars and sea urchins. We wander along the beach taking photos, then board the Zodiac back to the ship. 

 

We planned to have dinner with Heidi and another couple and had difficulty connecting but with help from staff got a table reserved. Nice conversation with Anne and Fran too.

There was more wave action, so I headed to bed. David enjoyed an after-dinner drink.

 

November 24

We slept well as the ship moved toward Neko Harbor and it was still moving slowly when the alarm went off. The view outside was awesome. Huge glaciers looking ready to calve at any moment and glassy water full of ice of all sizes were making the surface to appear slushy. It is 33 degrees. I’m glad I dressed in fewer layers today. Sunrise was 3:10 am and sunset 10:46 pm.

 

After breakfast we went up to deck 7, the observer’s deck where we had a full panoramic view.

There is a large colony of gentoo penguins on a snow mound with a penguin highway leading up from the shore. There are penguins in the water. This site is a continent landing which means actually stepping on the land of the Antarctic continent, as opposed to some of the islands where we have stopped.  Neko Harbor is home to approximately 250 pairs of the gentoo penguins.

 

We watched the penguins for two hours as several of them swam out to a large floating ice shelf on the water. It is amazing how effortlessly the dive in and jump out. The ship photographer went out in a zodiac to get closer shots.

Neko Harbor, named for a floating whale factory ship which often used this bay, is notorious for its calving glaciers and reminds me of Glacier Bay in Alaska. The beach is prone to large and unpredictable waves following a calving.

Our expedition team has determined there is not a landing site today so offered instead a one-hour zodiac tour around Andvord Bay.

After lunch we headed to Danco Island at the southern end of Errera Channel. The island is relatively small, about a mile long, but is high at 590 feet. The view from the top was spectacular due to the heavily crevassed glaciers in the surrounding mountains. Beautiful rolled icebergs also tend to collect in this area of the channel. Danco island is home to approximately 1600 breeding pairs of penguins which breed quite high on the slopes. When we arrived at Danco Island, we watched the ice for a while. Someone saw whales but by the time we got there, they were no longer surfacing.

We took pictures of the scenery and the penguins.

When we were called for our Zodiac, someone had taken over our assigned locker. My size 8 boots were missing and so was my parka. Staff helped me find substitutes so I could board the Zodiac-by now the last one out. The boots were too big, but serviceable except when I tried to walk on the rocky shore. David held my hand and so did a staffer, so I stayed upright.

After dinner tonight was a staff talent show which kept us all entertained.

November 25

 Thanksgiving Day! We arrived at Enterprise Island at 7:30 and staff hurried us along to get through breakfast and onto Zodiacs for our morning excursion. We will not go ashore this morning but explore the bay and icebergs from the Zodiacs. We are learning more about the ice every day. The neon blue bases of the floating bergs and the glimpses of blue in the glacial walls are pure compressed ice.

It is 37 degrees, so I am omitting some layers. Getting dressed in all the layers and boots is like getting ready to ski except in crowded conditions where you can’t get to your locker. And people are not considerate of each other’s shoes or gloves which go missing from the mud room.

 

We hear more about whaling and get to see a shipwreck of an old one which burned. We are delighted to hear that a whale has been sighted near our ship and pause the Zodiac for a time to be rewarded by seeing her surface and watch the fluke go under. I didn’t get a photo but saw the whale twice.

Our driver today is from Iceland and gives us some comparisons between there and here. The expedition crew has both men and women, some with PhDs in environmental sciences. We have experts on penguins, birds, weather, even the ice!

We board ship to move to Portal Point, our final stop for “continental landing”. Portal point lies at the entrance to Charlotte Bay.  This area is quite scenic due to mountains, crevassed glaciers and glacial tongues that extend down to sea level.

After lunch, we rode Zodiacs to the shore and disembarked to climb up a slope to the top of a rock from which we had magnificent panoramic views of the Portal Point Bay.

 

There is a wall or cliff of ice just beyond the shore, blocking access to the higher elevations. The crew had shoveled out some steps and stretched a rope line alongside to hang on to for balance. Staff also held our hands to keep us upright. From the snow steps we were on our own up the slope to the top. It was quite a climb. We took photos and had our pictures taken while holding a banner that proclaimed we had conquered our 7th continent. Hooray!

We very much enjoyed and were amused by the plucky penguins who quickly figured out that they too could use the steps to move higher. Soon there was a steady stream of them jumping up step by step.

We were able to slide on our backs down a long snowy path back down. Great fun!

We were helped by staff to cross a rocky area back to the zodiac and then to the ship.

Once everyone was aboard the ship began sailing back to Ushuaia, which will take two days.

We started our day early to get in both zodiac tours and begin to go home because another storm is threatening Drake Passage. We wanted to get through as quickly as possible, but we will still see some 15-foot waves.

The last zodiac to return had expedition staff aboard and David watched them from our deck. The team leader praised them for keeping everyone safe and they cheered and applauded. It was a moving ceremony and touched David’s heart.

We sat in the lounge for teatime and a final drink to celebrate a successful voyage.

We listened while Emma told us her story of doing her dissertation in Antarctica and why she calls this continent her home.

We dressed and went to dinner. Heidi made sure we had a large table for 14. They served an excellent Thanksgiving meal complete with a small pumpkin pie. But we were not done because cakes arrived to celebrate David’s birthday, our 33rd wedding anniversary and the retirement of one of the couples we met on board. Great food and conversation. Perfect ending to the day.

 

We watched the briefing for tomorrow to learn about the history of the shipwrecked sailing ship as well as the weather for the rest of the trip.

I’m ready for bed!

 November 26

We are at sea, heading out yesterday as soon as all were back on board.

Anticipating the new storm driving toward Drake Passage, I put on a new anti-nausea patch last night and took a Dramamine before going to bed. I probably should not take both at the same time, but it will be worth the risk if it keeps me on my feet. We slept in. There is only water outside. So far, the ocean is pretty calm, and I am doing OK. I ate some yogurt and made tea.

We are speeding along and overtook some whales visible on the port side of the ship. 

We watched a lecture streaming from the auditorium. Dr. Sobey spoke on “Antarctica’s Role in Climate Change”. This man is beyond knowledgeable. He has published 23 books and lectures worldwide mainly on cruise ships. His slides are very well done. Today he shows us the wind currents and temperatures and an entire ecosystem which includes how whales contribute. Wow!

Another speaker, Amy Kual, is a Marine Biologist. She is very smart and teaches us about microbes and how important they are to life on earth. Deep!!

I am feeling ok, so we decide to go to lunch. I always get soup. They make such great soup. This one is called pea and mint. I didn’t taste the mint, but the soup was delicious! There was yummy Nutella bread pudding for dessert.

Heidi came by for lunch. We thanked her for the celebration last night. David Roupp has been outside taking pictures and ate lunch early alone.

We stopped in the hallway to look at photos and bios of the Excursions Team. Four women, twelve men. These people drive the zodiacs and help us load and unload. They also help us to cross the rocky beaches. Some oversee the sea kayaks and paddle boarding. Very important to a successful voyage.

After lunch we listened to another lecture. We can stream the presentations to our TV in our cabin.

This one was from our Geologist on board who spoke about tectonic plates and how they funnel heat from inside the earth into the outer crust to form volcanoes. It is so impressive to have experts on the ship.

I am still doing ok even though the ocean is becoming rougher and will grow more so during the night as we cross Drakes Passage. I’m hoping to sleep through it. 

The hotel manager on the ship sent us Champaign with a note of apology after reading my survey feedback about poor communication while we tried to meet all the requirements for traveling.

There was another presentation about future cruises which we watched to pass the time. David watched a movie I couldn’t get interested in. We went to the lounge for the captains’ farewell party which included all the staff. There must be about 100 of them.

From there we went to the dining room for dinner.

November 27

At sea and Drake passage. I used some of my onboard ship credit to treat myself to a massage at the spa. David Roupp enjoys massage, and was not aware of the credit, so soon followed my suggestion and got a massage too.

David Wilson and I did some shopping in the gift shop to use more of our credit, but I don’t think we used it all.

The president of the Atlas cruise company was on board this trip and he bravely invited passengers to come to the auditorium to give him feedback about the trip. He gets an earful and takes it well. He offered discounts to future cruises as compensation.

There is plenty of education going on while we are at sea. Dr. Sobey gave another lecture describing his previous visits to Antarctica. There are also lectures on Antarctica seals and sea lions plus a fascinating history of Polar explorers. There is a slide show of our trip with photos taken by the ship photographers.

November 28

Last day at sea with more interesting lectures. David and I had read the book titled Endurance, a history of the polar explorer, Shackleton. What a heroic adventurer! There is a presentation of his story in the auditorium. Dr Sobey speaks about the frozen oceans. Sea ice and ice bergs are fundamentally important for the world’s climate and for the region’s wildlife. There is also a presentation about the Beagle channel and a story of Patagonia.

November 29

Today is debarkation. We packed our big bags last night and set them out for staff to take downstairs.

Breakfast was served as usual in the restaurant. There are fist bumps as we say thanks and goodbye to the staff. We have eaten very well. Excellent food and service.

We must be out of our cabin by 9:00. We pack toiletries and do a room check before heading to the lounge gathering place where we greet and say goodbyes to folks we have met.

We climbed down the stairs and onto the dock. Our key cards scanned a final time as we leave.

We walked along the dock to board a catamaran which will house us for the day. There are cookies and muffins, coffee and tea set out for us to enjoy.

We will have until 4:00 to explore Ushuaia with lunch on our own.

We are supposed to board busses to take us from the dock to the city center but learn that it is only about four blocks away, so decide to walk.

We are with David and Heidi and decide to go to a recommended museum. There is a brisk wind and I find myself wishing I had a vest or jacket. I have several in my checked bags but didn’t hold one of them out for today. The weather is changeable, with the sun peeking through at times, then some sprinkles of rain.

We reached the museum but of course there is an entry fee, and we have no Argentinian pesos. There are some interesting historic pieces on the museum grounds such as a cannon and some old wagons.

We decided to get some pesos and look for a “Cambio” exchange kiosk, but David discovered an ATM at a bank where we can use a credit card to get local currency. Of course, the face on the bills is Eva Peron! Other passengers from our ship, also walking around downtown were delighted to learn from David how to use the ATM to get local currency.

One man said, “I got 20,000 Pesos. I don’t know if that will buy a new suit or a cup of coffee!”

We strolled along the main shopping street looking into the stores. Many sell clothing and others primarily tourist souvenirs. The street was busy with traffic and local shoppers. We noticed the streets are clean and there are no stray dogs. We learn later there is a fine for dogs on the loose.

We decided to walk to the end of the street, now looking for the prison museum, only to discover it doesn’t open until 2:00.

The prison is a big part of the history here as it started as a penal colony.

We found a restaurant and were glad to get out of the cold. David had a hamburger and the rest of us had a hot ham and cheese sandwich. The waitress did not speak English, but we managed to place our order. The food was good, and the place was clean.

I decided I want to send post cards. David R and Heidi head back to the catamaran while David and I looked for the shop where we saw cards earlier.

We found it and I selected my cards. The store also sold stamps. It will take 4 different stamps for each card. Between the cards and stamps, the cost is about $5 US dollars each.

I asked to borrow a pen to address the cards, but the shop was closing for siesta and eager to get us out, so David bought a pen for me to use outside the store.

We stepped outside for me to address the cards, then walked a couple of blocks to the post office. We asked a local woman for directions, and she doesn’t know. She decided to find out for us, but we did not know that was her plan. We were walking away when she came back, annoyed we did not wait for her answer.

I went inside the post office to hand my cards to the clerk. I said Estadas Unidos and she used a date stamp to mark the cards before putting them in the bin. I wondered how long they will take to arrive.

We decided to walk back to the pier instead of catching the shuttle bus which gave us another adventure. Because of COVID, the protocol for access to the pier has been changed. We can ride the bus, but are not supposed to be walking, it seems. Two guard stations send us back and forth. Finally, a guard from one station walked with us to the pedestrian entrance. He and the other guards have a heated debate before he wins and motioned us to walk through the gate.

We met again at the catamaran at 4:00. We were transported by coach to Las Hayas Resort at Ushuaia for dinner and entertainment before we headed to the airport. The resort is on a high hill, and we were seated in a huge hall set with formal tables for our dinner. The ribeye steak was not very good. I guess we were spoiled by the terrific food on the ship.

The after-dinner entertainment was outstanding! There were dancers doing the Tango and they were amazing! The crowd loved it. What an excellent show.

We took the bus to the airport. Somehow the airport at Ushuaia lost its COVID credentials, so we cannot fly from there directly to the US. The plan now was for us to fly from Ushuaia to the Bahamas, deplane, get luggage, then check in for a flight to Orlando and from there back to our respective US destinations. Go figure! But it is always good to get home!