2019 - Bonnie's Journey to Switzerland and The Viking Rhine Getaway
Viking Rhine Getaway
April 7-19, 2019
April 7, Travel Day to Zurich
My husband David and I signed on for a Viking River tour called Rhine Getaway, which is so popular Viking runs 12 ships on the Rhine with cruises going in both directions, either from Basil, Switzerland to Amsterdam or the reverse. These ships depart from each end every day except Monday, and with 200 persons per ship, there are literally more than 2400 Viking passengers on the Rhine every day. We have chosen to add extensions to the cruise at both the beginning and the end, so will be in Lucerne, Switzerland for two days before the cruise begins, and will stay in Amsterdam for two days at the end.
This Netherlands visit was the primary purpose of the entire trip, as it was on my bucket list to see the magnificent Keukenhof gardens in full bloom. This happens in April, so of course, that is the timing for this trip for us. I reserved our airport transportation with Mike, our Uber driver, ahead of time. He said he would call me a couple of days before departure to confirm. We did not hear from him, so I called to confirm. He was prompt to arrive at 5:15 AM, helped load the luggage, and drove us using the 101-north loop, since the I 10 is closed for construction. It was Sunday, so traffic was light and we got to the airport in a record 45 minutes.
We checked
in and checked our bags without much of a wait, and the security lines were
short. My pre-check registered, but David’s did not, so we went through regular
screening, arriving at the gate well ahead of departure time. We have three
flights: the first to Dulles in DC, the second to Vienna and finally to Zurich.
We had arranged for upgraded seats on the international flight and welcomed
the comfort of wider seats as well as more leg room at the bulkhead. I slept
some and watched a movie. David didn’t sleep. There was a three-year boy
sitting near us who was undisciplined and noisy. He was travelling with his dad
who fed him bite by bite although he looked old enough to manage his own spoon.
At least we did not have to sit near a screaming infant, so we tried to ignore
the situation, although as we exited the plane a woman passenger commented to
us that she was disturbed by this unruly child.
April 8, More travel and arrival Lucerne
Flight connections went well. We were fed dinner and breakfast on the Austrian Air international flight. The Viking transfer agent was waiting for us at the Zurich airport at 12:30 pm and drove us about an hour to Lucerne, where we checked in the Radisson Blu Hotel, picked up info from the Viking desk and headed to bed feeling quite sleep-deprived after 24 hours in route. Viking keeps a fully staffed desk at the hotel since so many Viking patrons stay there. Wanting to try to acclimate to the time change, we set the alarm to wake at 4:00 p.m. for a walk around town and dinner. Lucerne is a pleasant and safe city.
We used our map to guide us on our walk around Lake Lucerne to the nearby Train Station, which, in addition to a place to catch multiple trains, is home to a large three- story mall. We explored for a time, stopping to buy a new battery for David’s camera. The old one seems not to hold a charge. We chose a place for dinner which had a self-serve food bar paid by the weight of the plate. The food was tasty but expensive—our first exposure to the high cost of living in Switzerland.
By now
it was dark, and we found our way back to the hotel to crash. Even though we were sleeping “on the other side of the clock”, we both slept well.
April 9, Pearls of Switzerland Tour Day
We had set the alarm, but because of time adjustment, also asked for a wake-up call at 7, as extra insurance just be sure we were awake in time for breakfast and the 8:30 tour. Breakfast was included at the hotel, and is ample, with many selections and uses real tea pots for brewing tea—so was a favorite with me.
Well-fed and rested, we gathered in the lobby to walk to the pier to board the boat for our cruise of lake Lucerne. The 13-hour tour today is filled with multiple experiences.
Jerry, a Viking co-host, escorted our 8- person group as we walked to the pier, where we met Sonja, our local guide for the day. She gave us an overview of the day before buying our tickets for the Lake Lucerne cruise ship. Viking titles this day as “Pearls of Switzerland”. Description: Marvel at Switzerland’s vast panoramas and some of its intimate details, gaining insight about a local Benedictine Order and the dairy industry. After an escorted walk to the pier on Lake Lucerne, meet your guide and embark on a scenic cruise. Breath-taking Alpine vistas soar to the sky wherever you turn as you glide along pristine waters and enjoy informative commentary. Later, disembark and board a cog railway up spectacular Mt. Rigi. Enjoy free time at the observation post, perhaps walking along one of the trails for more incredible views. After lunch at the summit on your own, descend the mountain by a different cog rail route, to drive to view the sprawling Einsiedeln Benedictine Abbey. Continue to a local dairy farm, where you can enjoy a tour and help to produce your own bergmutschli, or cheese. Then sit down to a delicious cheese fondue dinner.
Returning with the tickets, Sonja explained about Swiss punctuality, saying the ship departs at 9:12 precisely. We boarded with a large group of tourists and at Sonja’s suggestion, headed to an area near the front of the ship furnished with comfortable couches. We were inside with large windows to see out. We each had a Viking listening device, so could hear what Sonja said even if we moved around the ship to catch other views and take photos. Sonja introduced herself as a former flight attendant who has been around the world. She is married with three children, the youngest is 17 and in high school. She speaks seven languages, including Mandarin. Sonja knew her stuff and works as a guide for three companies. She gives us history, talks about life in Switzerland, and directs our attention to points of interest along the way.
The scenery is lovely with the snow-covered mountains rising high in the background. Spring has come late this year, with several inches of snow in town and on the peaks just a few days ago. Switzerland is a small country nestled among Italy to the south, France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria and Liechtenstein to the East. There are four official languages, German, French, Italian and Romanish. Children learn German and French in school. Many Swiss also speak English.
I tried to learn the geography, with two main mountain ranges. The Alps are to the south and east, and the Jura to the north and west. These ranges are divided by the Swiss Plateau, where most people live and the larger cities are located. Cost of living is very high in Switzerland. Most people cannot afford to buy property, so rent their entire lives. Wages are high here too, so residents of nearby countries often travel to Switzerland to work, and conversely, many Swiss travel to other countries, especially Germany, to shop where prices are much lower. Now that Europe does not have border security, crossing from one country to another is similar to driving to a different state in the US. Switzerland does not participate in the European Union so uses the Swiss Franc as currency, not the Euro. Health care is paid by taxes from employee’s wages which covers the costs.
The boat ride lasted about an hour, then we transferred to the cog railway red line to ride to the Vitznau stop at the top of Mount Rigi, which is not one of the Alps, but considered pre-Alps. (Go figure!)
Our bus awaited as we got off the cog train and took us to the spectacular Einsiedeln Abbey, a Catholic monastery established in 934. This is one of the most important baroque monastic sites and the largest place of pilgrimage in Switzerland.
We also had time for a snack at a cheese store before heading to a family dairy farm where the lady farmer showed us around to see the cattle and explained the milking process. This farm also harvests trees and sells firewood. The family is industrious and finds multiple sources of income. Dairy farming is a big deal in this country and of course the industry produces multiple details of numbers and types of cows, number of cows by farm, how much milk produced, and even how much milk produced by cow.
I was surprised that the greatest number of dairy farmers have between 15-25 cattle. Only a few have 75 or more. They record imports and exports by type of milk products. Standards are quite high, and our host showed us the many ways they measure the milk including levels of fat. What cows eat is also important because certain cheeses can only be made from milk from cows eating hay and grasses. Milk from cows who eat silage can only be used for other cheeses.
From here, we traveled to the cheese factory to learn about the cheese-making process and participate in the experience.
David got into the act, dressed in a protective gown and head cover to keep things clean. He helped stir the cheese and then to further process by cutting the curds with a device called a harp, and finally by straining the curds from the whey. We packed the curds into molds for further draining and aging. We take home cheese made by earlier Viking travelers, while what we made today will complete the aging process before a later Viking group takes it home. The factory cannot sell the cheese Viking makes.
The cheese shop made dinner for us with a salad, cheese fondue and frozen yogurt for dessert. It was all delicious. We packed up to head back to the hotel, but 20 minutes later, David discovers he is missing his man bag. The bus returned to the cheese factory, but the bag was not there. He apologized to the group for delaying them. We were relieved when we got back to our room and the bag was there. I worked on my journal before bed.
April 10 Lucerne and transfer to Viking ship
We had another delicious and ample breakfast at the hotel, packed up our bags and left them in the hallway to be transferred with us later to the ship. Our walking tour of Lucerne began at 10.00. Viking describes it: Get to know one of Switzerland’s most engaging cities, overflowing with charm and rich in history. Lucerne enjoys a breath-taking backdrop, straddling Lake Lucerne and overlooking snowcapped Alps. Your guide will help you examine the main sights up close. Stroll past the many half-timbered burgher houses and cross the Ruess River via the chapel bridge, the famous covered pedestrian span built in the 14th century and reconstructed in the 1993 after a fire. Thirty of its fine 17th century interior paintings have been restored.
You will also see the church of St. Leodegar, its interior awash in stunning white and its twin towers a sight to behold, and the Lion Monument carved to commemorate the 1792 massacre of Swiss guards during the French Revolution. The Musegg Wall, part of Lucerne’s defensive walls, is another wonder made from stone. Built in 1386, it is still almost entirely intact.
Moving is a different experience here, as people hire a ladder truck to deliver furniture from outside rather than trying to negotiate all the stairs.
We walked for two hours on the tour, learning more about Lucerne and Switzerland, including the tale of William Tell. Despite the advertised promise of a visit to the Lion, we did not see it on the tour, however Viking included a bus pass on public transportation which we used after the tour to go to the Lion stop, then walk a couple of blocks to see it for ourselves. This famous icon of Lucerne is a rock relief. The statue is 30 feet long and 18 feet high. The size is colossal. Mark twain called it “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.”
All around are green trees and grass in a sheltered reposeful woodland nook, remote from the noise and confusion of the surrounding city. Afterward, we rode the bus to the train station and stopped for lunch on the third floor at a self-serve buffet restaurant. We took a bit of this and that and found it satisfying. We moseyed back to the hotel to wait for the 3:30 Viking bus to Basil to board the ship.
Time passed slowly as we waited with others from our group, trying to make small talk. We finally boarded the bus and rode for over an hour to Basil, with a guide giving us more information about Switzerland and the area through which we passed. Traffic was heavy but we relaxed and were glad to let the driver deal with it.
Boarding the ship was fast. We only needed to show ID. Our cabin was already assigned and earlier at the hotel, we had been given luggage tags with our cabin number on them, so the crew could quickly whisk them to our cabin. We had a few minutes to unpack and get settled before the required safety drill in our life jackets. Then on to dinner, where we met two couples for an interesting dinner discussion over a great meal. Still feeling the effects of jet lag, we were ready for bed by 10.
April 11 Into the Black Forest by E-bike
The day was gray and chilly, and we asked ourselves “what were we thinking?” about this 9-hour tour. I asked at the desk about cancellation, but of course knew there could be no refund. I was a bit intimidated by an all-day tour even on an E-bike, and the cold weather was a further deterrent, but we braved it and walked to the tour site to select bikes and helmets.
The tour hosts were efficient in assisting us to find the correct size bikes-only two sizes to choose from, and to get helmets as well. We rode the bikes around the parking lot to try them out before heading out. The bikes have four levels of assist from the battery, Eco, tour, sport and turbo. The guide suggested using tour mode first. He wanted us to save battery for the final leg of the trip which was the steepest.
The guide warned us the final stretch of the journey would be the steepest, and he was correct. Too bad it came at the end when we were most tired. We rode three hours until lunch, then a 2-hour break, and three more hours of cycling.
I would have been content to stop after lunch, but that was not an option. The most dangerous part of the trip was not the physical difficulty but navigating traffic in the villages. It was difficult to see at some of the corners, so we had to stop or nearly stop to be safe.
At one crosswalk, a car nearly did not stop for David. The rear guide shouted to the driver. Other times, when we crossed at a light, there was not enough time for the entire group to cross before the light changed. Once when riding along a paved road, David slipped off the pavement, struggling to keep his balance in the mud beside the road. We persevered, moving the assist into Turbo and reducing resistance gear by gear until we were at 1. There were some long steep hills, and we just kept peddling, hoping for this to end soon. The battery gave out on the bike of the lead guide, so he began pushing it up the final hill with riders passing him by. They did not then know where to stop the ride and continued further up the hill than necessary. The guide left his bike at the stopping place, borrowed another rider’s bike to chase after David and the others who had gone too far.
David said later there were hardly words more welcome than when the guide caught up with him and told him to turn around. The stopping place was the entrance to the road leading downhill into the farmyard. We rode down and left our bikes for pickup by the tour company. The farmer showed us his beef cattle and other stock, including the automated scoop to clear away manure. We visited the old farmhouse where we had fresh baked bread and butter before walking back up to hill to meet our bus waiting on the road.
It took less than an hour for us to reach the ship, essentially retracing our uphill route on the bikes. The woman at the front desk of the ship asked me for feedback, since I had inquired about cancelling. I said I was warm enough, and the trip was more than I bargained for, nevertheless, I got it done!
April 12 Strasbourg, France
The largest port on the Upper Rhine, Strasbourg is the cultural center of France’s Alsace region. (We learned while visiting here that the French government has recently grouped together three areas of France and now calls it the Great East. Alsace residents protested mightily wanting to retain their name and cultural traditions to no avail.) Thanks to its location at the border of France and Germany, the city boasts a convivial mix of cultural influence. Across the centuries, it has alternately belonged to Germany and then France, back and forth several times. David and I confessed we both thought of Strasbourg as German. Here the Rhine is the border between Germany and France, with the bridges spanning the river sitting with one end in Germany and the other in France and a stripe painted in the middle of the bridge to make the boundary.
The well-preserved Old Town is enclosed on all sides by the Ill River, which separates into two parts, creating an island where the city sits. The sites are so compact, it was easy to explore the island on foot. There was plenty to explore: cobblestone streets lined with wooden houses and intersected by picturesque canals. Indulging in an Alsatian café culture is central to any visit here where one can enjoy coffee and cake amid lovely half-timbered houses.
Our young French woman guide arrived by bicycle to meet our buses near the ship. She narrated our experience very well and maintained her composure despite repeated questions about whether this area is German. She stated more than once, “I am French!” Our bus ride took us through both the German Imperial District and the European Quarter of Strasbourg. I had never seen Sycamore trees pruned so severely. The core branches have “knobs” growing at the end from the annual trimming. Most of these trees have huge stork nests. This bird is the symbol of Strasbourg but managing them is a challenge. The huge nests are added to year after year and grow so heavy they cause the trees to collapse under nearly a ton of weight. The city has begun to build large metal baskets on the roofs of city building and churches with the strength to support the nests, inviting these large birds to locate there.
Much of Strasbourg is modern and home to many institutions of the European Union and the Council of Europe. Our guide explained the EU is a political and economic union of 28 member states. The Council of Europe is an international organization comprised of 47 member states whose stated aim is to uphold human rights, democracy and rule of law in Europe. Several large buildings house offices of the various officials of these two groups. We drove past remarkable Renaissance architecture on the way to the city center for a walking tour of the Petit France area, the former Tanners’ district, the Old Customs House and covered bridges with their defensive towers. In Cathedral Square we admired the magnificently restored Strasbourg Cathedral, towering above the shops and cafes below. One of the finest of Europe’s great Gothic cathedrals, it was once the world’s tallest building from 1647 to 1874.
After leading us through the Cathedral’s beautiful red sandstone portal, our guide described the stunning interior, pointing out the massive pipe organ, a spectacular rosette window whose span is the length of a basketball court, and the incredible astronomical clock. This clock has run for centuries without electricity, merely by using weights, like a cuckoo clock. It has days of the week, months of the year, seasons, moon phases, angels ringing bells, and all manner of intricate mechanical movement marvels.
Our tour ended, we were left with time on our own to explore the shops and cafes in the town square. It was about 47 degrees with a wind, so after walking with the tour for nearly two hours, we were chilled and ready for a hot drink. We stepped into a café filled with other tourists to have coffee and hot chocolate. We wandered about looking at the souvenir shops thinking we might find some nice note cards but did not.
We gathered back on the square at 11:40 to be escorted to the waiting bus. On our way we passed a model of the city which was quite interesting to see more clearly how the river surrounds the town.
We returned to the ship for lunch, noticing the marking on the middle of the bridge showing the dividing line between France and Germany.
Others chose some optional tours for the afternoon, but David and I took advantage of some down time to journal, read and nap until dinner. The ship had about 200 passengers. We had begun to get acquainted with some of the folks but tonight we ate our meal with a couple from England, or U K as they put it. We had quite a lively discussion with them about Brexit and the internal conflict about it in their country, similar in some ways to the USA being politically divided now.
Saturday April 13 Heidelberg and Rudesheim, Germany
After breakfast, we boarded buses to drive along the Neckar River to visit the Heidelberg Castle. We learned later that Neckar means “wild man”, and the river was so called because of its severe flooding and destruction of the town. Heidelberg sits on a narrow passage of the river at one end of the graceful Old Bridge. The castle and town are so steeped in romance that they stood at the center of the German Romantic movement. The majestic Heidelberg castle has long inspired writers as varied as Johann von Goethe and Mark Twain.
Originally built during the early 13th century, it was the residence of the Palatinate monarchy through the 18th century. Today much of it is in ruins, having been sacked and burned multiple times. But there are many parts still standing and worth having a look. Throughout this trip, we have all complained of the cold. Before we left home, I regularly checked the European temperatures and found the highs to generally fall between 55 and 60 degrees so packed accordingly. However, the actually daily temperatures have been about fifteen to twenty degrees below that, ranging from 35 to 45. We did have one day when the high reached 51. It has been cloudy most days and often with sharp winds. We are all layering and bundling, murmuring against the cold. The red earmuffs I brought along have been the envy of many. I am wearing my jeans over my leggings and have daily regretted not bringing my fleece jacket. David offered to buy me one of the Viking cruise jackets on display at the front desk, but I declined. Even so, imagine our surprise when we got off the bus and began walking up the hill to the castle when snow began to fall in fat fluffy flakes. Our guide was also amazed. He said he has never led a tour when it was snowing. As the day progressed, the snow turned to a light misting rain. David bought me an umbrella.
The castle is huge, being added onto multiple times, with a giant dry moat as it is too far up the hill from the river to fill with water. The guide pointed out many of the decorations such as the nine lions on the façade, the many statues of genealogical significance, gargoyles, balconies, and the dungeon. There is also the world’s largest wine barrel, so large it has a dance floor on top. The guide remined us that water was not purified during these times and was not safe to drink, so everyone drank wine instead.
The castle is currently used as the venue for many local concerts and events, including Shakespeare plays. The lovely balcony is perfect to produce Romeo and Juliet. The castle was filled with large groups of tourists and the tour bus parking lot a maze of vehicles. It was fascinating to watch the drivers navigate the huge buses to turn around and park. The tiny medieval streets also present challenges, but none too great for these guys to manage.
We loaded up again to descend to the Alstadt, or Old Town, for a walking tour of the turreted Heidelberg University. Founded in 1386, it is Germany’s oldest. We visited the area and saw the school’s tower in which unruly boys were incarcerated for misdeeds, and the Red Ox tavern in which they boasted to their mates about their imprisonment.
I have not yet mentioned that Europeans smoke much more than Americans. It was common to see both men and women smoking as they walk down the street or gather in groups outside. There are even cigarette vending machines in the hotels. Cigarette butts litter the sidewalks. Our guide finished his talk, and we were on our own to explore the town square with its multiple souvenir shops, cafes and taverns. David and I stopped to warm up with hot drinks, tomato soup and strudel.
We wandered among the shops before heading back to the meeting point for the return bus. Given the cold, our group was gathering inside the visitor center which became more crowded as departure time approached. Finally, the buses appeared, and we boarded. When the count was taken, we were missing two. It was still a few minutes before the deadline, but the guide headed back to town to search. He shortly returned with the youngest couple on the ship, newlyweds who are honeymooning on this trip. We applauded when they boarded, and they said they were drinking beer. We all had a good laugh.
Our ship moved while we were in Heidelberg, so we returned to the ship now in Rudesheim to have lunch and an afternoon at leisure on the ship. Good for me to have time for my journal. For dinner, we signed up for an optional tour into town. Viking describes it: "Get into the Local Spirit of Wine and Song. Raise your glass and give a hearty Prost! to a delicious and fun evening. Nestled deep in the wine country, despite its growing popularity, Rudesheim has retained its small-town riverside charms. Nowhere is this more apparent than along the Drosselgasse, a narrow pedestrian way overflowing with wines and oom-pah-pa tunes. The proprietors of the Rudesheimer Schloss keep another tradition alive—the earth-to-table approach to dining that brings the rich and varied flavors of their beloved Rheingau straight to your plate".
To get there, we boarded a small city mini-train tram, with cars connected to look like a little train. We were glad the cars are enclosed against the wind and cold as it wound us through the maze of streets in the town to the 15th century Drosselgasse lane. We took in the medieval atmosphere as we passed quiet cozy wine bars and lively taverns through streets that were designed so that goods could be easily delivered from the river. We departed the train and walked a short distance down a steep and narrow lane to the restaurant, which had tables set up to accommodate our group of 60.
We found a place and got settled next to a couple from Durango Colorado, so had lots in common to talk about. Also, at our table were a man and woman who were on the E-bike trip. Sherry is the one who fell, and she shows us her very bruised wrist and hand. She said it doesn’t hurt. My only physical complaint from the bike trip was not my knees, which I expected, but from my wrists, tired from holding onto the handlebars for about seven hours.
The meal is delicious, with wine and beer poured freely. I asked for iced tea, but it was sweetened, so I settled for hot tea. The appetizer course was served on a long narrow plate which held a small salad, two slices of a wurst sausage and some cheese pate spread for the dark bread. The main course was pork and mashed potatoes, with a peach strudel for dessert. Everything was so tasty.
There was a live band playing an assortment of tunes, some German polkas and then John Denver or Jimmy Buffet. A woman played drums and sang. A man played keyboards and sang. A third man was multitalented on woodwinds including flute, Irish whistle (which he plays with his nose), clarinet and saxophone. They played several sing-along songs and the group got into the fun.
During the evening, they played games. One drinking game used a long board with five shot glasses attached. They lined up five drinkers who picked up the board together and drank all at the same time. This was repeated multiple times to give everyone a try. David resisted at first, but finally was coaxed into participating.
One of
the musicians brought out a set of small bells shaped like cow bells, but each
played a different note. Like a bell choir at church, he demonstrated playing
Edelweiss by himself, then seated several women, each holding a bell, and by
pointing to them in turn, directed the Edelweiss tune from the group. They did a
great job. The band gave some instruments to a few diners and led them
around the restaurant in a parade which turned into a Congo line. All too soon,
it was time to go. We pulled on our coats and braced for the brisk walk back to the
waiting tram.
Sunday, April 14, 2019, Scenic cruising along the Middle Rhine to Koblenz
We told ourselves we would sleep in since there are no tours planned this morning, but we woke up at 6:30 anyway. We were nearly the first in the dining room, so it was the perfect opportunity to take photos of the food and staff. I had been wanting to document the ship services, so took several pictures now and across the day of various staff, each of whom seemed very pleased to be asked to pose. Our cabin steward, Ivan, seemed especially pleased.
We took our time over breakfast and drinking coffee and hot tea as folks slowly filled the room. Finally, we went up a level to the lounge seating area, where I worked on my journal and took photos of castles. The morning was a scenic cruise of the middle Rhine River. Often called the Romantic Rhine, the Rhine River flows through one of Germany’s most scenic regions. The entire river and the hillsides above have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. As we cruised, we passed by vineyard-blanketed hills whose steep slopes require vintners to pick by hand, keeping a centuries old tradition alive.
There are literally dozens, maybe hundreds, of castles along this route. The cruise director, Gavin, provided a map so studded with castles, the names are listed along one side, with tiny lines pointing to tiny flags at the castle locations. The cruise director gave an on and off running narrative of all we were seeing, telling tales, myths and stories of castle deeds and misdeed over the centuries. We admired the splendid castles and dramatic rocks, all of which have stories to share. David and I were clicking away with our cameras, sometimes running upstairs to the sun deck to brave the cold wind and get a better view.
We enjoyed the story about Lorelei Rock at a dramatic curve of the river. The tale is about a river maiden who mesmerized sailors with her song and lured them to their demise at her feet. There are poems and even songs about this rock and the maiden. Gavin played one for us as we passed by the rock. He joked that we were actually hearing the maiden’s luring songs which had come from nowhere and we were lucky to have escaped.
All during the morning of course, the ship has food and beverage stations set up for passengers to snack away on fruit or muffins and other treats. Everyone has found a cozy nook or table to read or relax while watching the scenery and listening to the narration. I was journaling. It was a very pleasant morning.
After lunch, just prior to 1:00, the ship stopped at Koblenz, Germany, a traditional German country town situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. Founded more than 2,000 years ago, this former trading settlement rests on a high rise of the Middle Rhine Highlands. Its cobblestone streets, wood-beamed houses adorned with flowers, ancient market square and medieval churches recall the fairy-tale Germany of old. At the “German Corner” where the two rivers converge, a massive equestrian statue of Prince William I observes the lovely riverside scene. The famed Teutonic Knights set up their first base here in 1216. The Romanesque Basilica of St. Castor, Koblenz’s oldest building, dates to 836.
Our afternoon tour took us to visit “Medieval Life Perfectly Preserved” at Marksburg Castle. Sitting high atop a hill, this beautifully preserved 700-year-old castle provides spectacular views of the countryside. We boarded a coach to drive from the ship in a reverse direction back south along the river and up and up to Braubach, where this incredible castle has watched over the town since the 13th century. Because this magnificent structure was built with strong fortifications, it was never besieged by enemies.
Multiple levels of walls surrounded the hillside as we climbed, providing level after level of protection for the fortress. Each wall had a heavily fortified gate and was guarded by a group of soldiers. Upon arrival on the lofty grounds, we enjoyed spectacular views of the Rhine below as well as Braubach and the surrounding countryside from the castle’s 550-foot perch.
Today, Marksburg Castle is home to the German Castles Association, which works to preserve medieval fortifications such as Marksburg all over Germany. Two caretaker families actually live in the castle. Some of the improvements include concrete stairways, but most of the floors and ramps look like original, paved with uneven rocks and precarious uneven steps. We carefully picked our way over the treacherous walkways to follow our guide, who would often say, “The right (or left) side is the better choice.”
This is the only castle in the Rhine Valley which has never been destroyed, and the association has worked to restore and furnish it so it looks as it would have in Medieval times. The impressive kitchen in the Gothic Hall building, for example, has huge pots hanging in a massive fireplace and drying herbs and curing meats hang from the ceiling.
The bedroom has trunks, which were used to store clothing instead of wardrobes, and a small bed made for two adults, with heavy curtains around the sides to help keep in the heat. We saw a small room attached to but protruding from the side of the building. This was one of three similar toilets. There was a hole for waste to drop down outside the castle. Quite a convenient arrangement. In the ancient torture chamber, we viewed grisly instruments. In the armory, we saw “fashions” of armor and military uniforms across the centuries, beginning with Roman Legion uniforms, metal and chain mail up to WW I.
Our guide told us that a soldier in armor had to raise his visor to be recognized and this is the history of the military salute. The distinct butter-churn shaped castle tower, with its district profile, is so-named because the upper reaches have a smaller diameter than the lower, is a beloved landmark of the town.
We really enjoyed this tour-very informative. Our guide was terrific. But the castle was so crowded with tourists that there was a structured system of sequencing tours to allow groups enough space to move around and pass each other on the irregular surfaces. We walked down the long pathway to the bus parking lot to board for our return trip, pleasantly surprised now and then by gloriously blooming fields of flowers and shrubs. Spirea, especially, reminds me of my mom so was nostalgic. I do not see it in AZ.
Monday, April 15 Cologne
I posted pictures on Facebook every day. Much of this Rhine region was involved in WW II, so we were learning some of that history on this cruise. We passed by the bridge involved in the famous battle of Remagen, when the Allied invasion of Germany resulted in the unexpected capture of the Ludendorff Bridge over the Rhine and shortened the war in Europe.
The 9th Armored Division of the US First Army had advanced quickly toward the Rhine and were surprised to see one of the last bridges across the Rhine still standing. The Germans had wired the bridge with about 6,200 pounds of demolition charges. When they tried to blow it up, only a portion of the explosives detonated. US forces captured the bridgehead across the Rhine. The GI’s actions prevented the Germans from regrouping east of the Rhine and consolidating their positions.
Our ship passed the remains of the Ludendorff Bridge about 5:00 in the morning, so the crew shined a spotlight on the bridge. Many folks got up early to see it. We tried but were late enough that the bridge was dark behind us when we got to the sun deck to see it. David went back to bed, but I stayed up to journal.
Today in Cologne finally was warmer weather. The sunshine felt great. A better day. An intriguing mix of old and new, Cologne reveals its Roman heritage in its city layout and the ancient ruins that lie scattered through the town.
Cologne’s modern plazas and Hohe Strasse, a pedestrian-only shopping zone, host welcoming shops, enticing restaurants and, of course, cologne boutiques. Of particular note is the city’s 14th -century cathedral, a stunning example of Gothic artistry and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spared Allied bombs during World War II, the cathedral’s imposing twin spires are visible for miles; stained glass windows fill the entire structure with brilliant colored light. Its 509 steps lead to a 312-foot-high platform with astounding views.
The included walking tour led to a historic city crowned by Northern Europe’s largest cathedral. We learned the treasured heritage of Cologne by visiting the spectacular cathedral, towering over the Old City in all its Gothic splendor. The Cathedral is Germany's most visited landmark, attracting an average of 6 million people a year. With spires reaching 515 feet, it is the tallest twin-spired church in the world.
Construction of the towering structure began in 1248 and continued in several stages over the next seven centuries. Finally completed in 1880, it largely escaped the damage that ravaged the city and the rest of Germany during World War II. This magnificent church boasts two soaring spires and beautiful stained-glass windows. The cathedral also shares a modern stained-glass window devoted to technology using a type of stained-glass window referred to as a pixel window.
Contemporary German artist Gerhard Richter designed the 65- foot-tall work to replace the original window, destroyed by bombs in World War II. The new Cologne cathedral window is made of 11,500 four-inch square “pixels” cut from original antique glass in a total of 72 colors. It is designed to use sunshine at noon during summer season to stream through the window to create a huge extended rainbow of lights through the interior of the cathedral.
On the walking tour, we stepped into a rich past, following some of the city’s preserved historic street patterns and hearing about its Roman and medieval history along the way. We also saw the Great St. Martin Church, a Romanesque Catholic church. It was heavily damaged in WW II but has been fully restored.
Our guide for the walk was not up to usual standards, but she showed us a town-signature statue of a man affixed to the outside of the third floor of a building across from city hall. He is mooning the office of the mayor. It was placed there when townspeople did not like the previous mayor. The statue is of a person squatting with his pants down, suspended above us on the side of a building. There are several stories about the statue's origin. It is no coincidence that it is in front of the town hall. One theory is that it is an expression of dissatisfaction with authorities in the council.
The guide talked a lot about the Roman history of the area and shows areas of excavation still in the process of uncovering Roman ruins. Much of the city seems to be under renovation. Several projects will be completed in 2021, and the guide invited us to come back then.
We decided to leave the tour early and head for an outdoor coffee shop to enjoy the sunshine and people watch.
Cologne is famous for three major products: Eau de Cologne, Lindt chocolate, and Kolsch beer. This light crisp beer is brewed only in Cologne. Brauhaus servers, called kobes, deliver the beer in small 7-oz glasses.
The Eau de Cologne originated in Germany, mixed by Joann Maria Farina, an Italian perfume-maker, who named his new creation in honor of his new hometown of Cologne in 1709. The perfume was delivered to nearly all the royal houses in Europe. It has since become a generic term for scented formulations which can include a mixture of citrus oils such as lemon, orange, tangerine, clementine, bergamot, lime, grapefruit, blood orange and bitter orange. It can also contain a variety of oils of lavender, rosemary, thyme and jasmine.
At 4:00 on the ship, we had a
guest speaker from Germany who told us all about modern life in the country. He
had great information, and displayed a German paycheck stub to go
through deduction after deduction to show how costs are paid for health care,
education, senior care, etc. He also talked about the financial and cultural
impact of tearing down the Berlin wall to absorb the poverty-stricken Communist
residents as well as how Germany is managing the huge immigration population.
We had dinner on board the ship, then went to our cabin to watch a movie, but
learned that Notre Dame in Paris is burning to the ground. We watched the news
coverage in shock and sadness. We were glad we got to see it last year before
the fire.
Tuesday, April 16 Scenic Cruising to the Netherlands
We cast off from Cologne at 11:00 pm, so awoke in the morning on the bucolic waters of the Rhine deep into the Rhine-Scheldt Delta, with classic Dutch landscapes all around. Flat farmland, charming windmills and svelte poplar trees lined the shores and vast tracts of land, stretching in all directions and growing all manner of bounty, from tomatoes to tulips. We see herds of Freisan cows, the source of famous Dutch cheeses, and tidy villages with neatly laid farmhouses. We marveled at how much land was reclaimed from the sea, saved by the stirrings of traditional windmills and the building of dikes.
We cruised nearly all day, watching the river commerce increasing, with huge barges passing inland carrying all manner of products and equipment. We stopped at Kinderdijk, a village community in the Alblasserwaard province, located where the Lek and Noord Rivers meet. This corner of South Holland, part of the scenic Waal and Merwede regions, has long been shaped by Rhine Delta waters.
Kinderdijk is most known for its 19 remarkably preserved 18th century windmills. The charming hamlet is located amid low-lying polders, tracts of land reclaimed from the sea by the power of windmills and enclosed by embankments, or dikes. This legendary place calls to mind the 1865 novel “Hans Brinker”, in which a heroic boy plugs his finger into a ruptured dike.
The included tour of this area was in the picturesque Dutch countryside to see the original technological marvels of historic Kinderdijk, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We walked through the serene polder lands of South Holland. As we crossed the dike to the windmills, we noticed that they are in fact at a lower elevation than our ship, as much of this part of Netherlands is below sea level. Built in the mid-18th century, these 19 windmills, the largest concentration in the Netherlands, stand like sentinels on a hushed landscape. We learned how and why they were built, even stepping into a working windmill to observe its mechanics and living quarters.
Families who live in these mills are required to keep them in working order. This excursion provides a revealing look at these marvelous buildings that helped shape the legendary Dutch landscape. Our Dutch guide was pleasant and well informed. He said his education was as an engineer. He told us that the 19 windmills were outdated when electricity and diesel was introduced, but the windmills are kept as a symbol of the Netherlands.
The millers who live there with their families receive a stipend, and they receive special training and must pass tests before being considered for the job. They work regular jobs too but must maintain the windmills in working order. We get an up-close look, including climbing the stairs inside to see all the working parts and gears. I found it fascinating.
We boarded the ship at 6:30 pm to head into Amsterdam. There was a Captain's farewell toast in the lounge at 7:00. We sat with the new friends we made on the trip: Arlene and Randy, Nanette and Rick, Midge and Bob. We had dinner with them as well and enjoyed sharing stories and photos of the trip.
We will see them again at early breakfast in the morning, and headed to our rooms about 9:30 to pack. Our bags must be outside our rooms at 7 AM, tagged to be delivered to our hotel in Amsterdam.
Wednesday, April 17 Disembark to Amsterdam
We must be off the ship by 8:30, so set the alarm for six to get dressed and pack our toiletries. We set the bags in the hallway by the 7:00 deadline, and head up to breakfast. One great last meal by the ship's crew. We had been so spoiled! Sure enough, our buddies stopped by to eat with us and chat. Before we disembarked, I stopped by the front desk to show the two women who work there the photo I took of them, as they had asked to see it. They were pleased.
We stood waiting in the ship lobby until David urged us to head outside. We walked a bit to where the buses were waiting. It is Viking’s protocol for us to identify our own bags waiting there to be sure they have been properly collected from the ship before we board the bus. Ours were waiting there, so we got on the bus. When the driver had counted his assigned quota of 61, he drove us to the Movenpick hotel, which was actually just down the street about two blocks.
We have been to Amsterdam before and visited the fabulous art museums where Dutch Masters such as Van Gogh and Rembrandt’s work famously is displayed. But there was a new one in 2012, called The Eye Film Institute, an enormous museum of cinema which we have not seen. We were eager to see the other changes to the city since we were last here.
At the hotel, we got off the bus and gathered in the lobby, as most of us were going immediately on a walking tour of the city.
Our guide was a good one and showed us the train station, old and new town, churches and public buildings, all while entertaining us with history and humor. While life expectancy here is 81 ½, it is quite common for people to live to 100. It is easy to see that folks get lots of exercise since cycling is the most popular method of getting around. We were amazed at the cycle modifications that are made to accommodate families, with little “car-seats” attached or baskets which carry children.
City of charming canals, elegant gabled houses, splendid museums and abundant bicycles, the Dutch capitol of Amsterdam is a delight to explore. Its patchwork of waterways forms about 90 islands connected by 1,500 bridges. The legacy of the Dutch Golden Age lives on in gilded manses and in the lush paintings of Rembrandt and other Dutch masters that adorn the Rijksmuseum, the Netherlands grand repository of art and cultural history.
Today, discovering Amsterdam is a pleasure best pursued on foot, following tranquil canals past charming narrow-fronted houses. Our guide explained the many different types of gabled houses. One style is called a step gable because the sloping sides are notched like steps. Another style is called a neck gable because it just goes straight up from the roof, narrowing, like your neck does from your shoulders to your head. A third is called a bell gable as the sides of the slant are bell-shaped.
Other cornices were filled with statues or emblems of the owner’s trade. The city’s old tax code shaped these quaint homes into what they are today. Builders were taxed based on the frontage of their dwelling, thus houses here are quite narrow, but go up three floors. They cannot build taller because of the soft soil. They use pile-drivers to force strong supports into the ground and build houses on them.
The guide warned us of the danger of the many cyclists by quoting a couple of sayings—one is that they are called “killer-cyclists”. Another saying is the bike routes are “Cycle paths for psychopaths.” There are far more bicycles in the city than people. Hundreds of bikes wind up in the canals, resulting in the saying that the canals are 3 meters deep, and the bottom meter is full of bicycles. He says when young men have a few drinks, they look for unlocked bicycles and, just for sport, throw them in the canal. He also gave us tips on getting around town, getting oriented, and on walking in harmony with the many bicyclists and trams.
Amsterdam has many different neighborhoods with squares filled with open cafes and shops. The 60 miles of canals keep the waters of the North Sea at bay with a series of sluices at the city’s parameter. In all, the network of canals forms a horseshoe shape with Central Station at the center of the mouth.
The coffeehouses are not for buying coffee, but recreational drugs. You can even buy cannabis ice-cream. The new mayor, a woman, is working to clean up the image of the city, and now people are immediately and heavily fined for drinking in public or peeing on the street.
The canals are no longer filled with trash and debris. The guide says his kids swim in the canal to cool off during summer. One of the neighborhoods we walked through was the red-light district, and the guide educated us about how legal prostitution works. There was a lot of discussion about it among the group.
We passed a small clothing shop which had a cute pair of red heels in the window. They especially caught David’s eye, but we couldn’t stop, and the shop was closed anyway as it is early in the morning, but David wanted to buy those shoes for me.
The guide explained that housing was at a premium, and many people live on boats parked along the canals.
Our morning tour over, we stopped for coffee, tea and a croissant while we planned for the afternoon. We decided to use the Hop-on, Hop-off system, which here includes three lines of boats on the canals, and one line of buses.
Coffee shop
Ticket office Hop-on Bus
Canal tour boat
We began with the canal boats and were comfortable just to relax and listen to the narration, swivel-necking to catch all the sights. When we changed to another canal line, we discovered there is a Hop-on stop very near our hotel, so rode the boat there to get checked in since it was now 3:00.
We checked in, made sure our bags had been properly delivered, then went to board the bus, but now we were at street level and not the water level where we got off, and there was no sign for the bus stop. We could see there is a bus pullout for the city bus and think this must also be used for the Hop-on line. We waited there a bit and about decided we should go to the hotel concierge to ask about the schedule when we saw the Hop-on bus approaching and flagged it down.
The driver said the complete route takes about an hour and a half, which sounded fine to us, so we rode, listened, learned and people watched until we arrived back at the hotel to freshen up. We decided to eat at the hotel restaurant which is quite nice and were ready to stay in for the evening.
Thursday, April 18 Amsterdam and Keukenhof Gardens
We set the alarm for six to be at the included breakfast by 6:30 and ready to load up for the garden tour before 8:00. There were lots of folks gathered in the hotel lobby and we eventually learned that there were two groups of Viking passengers here. Some like us who are finishing the cruise ship trip, and the other group which is beginning the cruise. All of us are seeing the gardens today, but Viking wants to keep us separate because after the gardens, some of us will return to the hotel and some will board the ship.
Staff explained this and continued to make announcements and answer individual questions, yet they know there is still a problem because when we boarded our bus, the guide said we have 31 and should only have 30, so something is amiss. He asked again whether everyone on the bus plans to return to the hotel, and finally, a woman jumps up and says no, she is to go on the ship! The guide helped her off the bus and to the other bus, still waiting because they were short a passenger. These Viking contract folks earn their money!
On the way, our guide provided background information about many things. He says the Dutch take an easy, practical view of names. People placed a dam on the Amster River to create Amsterdam, they placed a dam on the Rotter River to create Rotterdam. The two main churches in Amsterdam are the Old Church and the New Church. A lake was drained to make room for the airport and ships were found at the bottom. The airport is named Schiphol (Ship Hole). The North Sea Canal goes to the North Sea. He had us laughing.
Our destination today was Keukenhoff gardens, a place long on my bucket list, and why we were even making this trip in April so we can see the bulbs in bloom. These gardens are promoted as the Greatest Flower Show on Earth. Every spring, a vibrant multicolored carpet blankets the 70 acres at Keukenhof Gardens, and this does not include the acres and acres of surrounding fields of flowers in bloom.
Cheese is Holland’s number one export, then bulbs, then beer. Some 7 million flowers are said to bloom at the gardens: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, lilies, bluebells, crocuses and countless others form graceful ribbons along pathways, fountains, ponds and brooks and fill greenhouses and fields to bursting. We were delighted to have sunshine and no rain and followed our guide off the bus and waited while he bought our tickets. We were then on our own for three hours to explore, admire, enjoy and take photos.
This garden is indeed a multicultural experience with dozens of languages around us. English is the common denominator. People were friendly and offered to exchange photo taking. We strolled among the more than 100 varieties of tulips on these 15th -century grounds. We breathed in glorious scents of apple blossoms, hyacinths and other flowers and trees as we looped through the circular paths to mingle among sculptures and statuary. The flowers were planted in assorted patterns, some in triangles, rectangles, diamonds and arcs. Some beds were a uniform color, others were mixed colors. Some beds had only one variety of flower, others had mixed varieties. Flowers of mixed heights were also grouped together. The deep bold colors were rich beyond belief.
There are many varieties of tulips. One, for example, is a tulip with so many petals, it resembles a rose. Another has a fringed top edge. Every effect was stunning! God is truly creative. There was a large windmill in the garden with a second floor so we could climb up to take in more panoramic views and photos. There were six pavilions decorated in this year’s theme, “Flower Power”. The Beatrix pavilion was filled with hundreds of breathtaking orchids of every size and color. They had gone all out with everything from the psychedelic 60’s from Beetles to Beatles, afros to guitars, even a VW camper bus, all decorated with flowers and peace symbols.
There were lots of inviting places to take selfies and photo ops among the flowers. I was very moved to be seeing these gardens. I think so often of my mom who loved flowers, trees and plants and was quite a gardener. We joked about her green thumb. She was successful with houseplants too. We would sometimes buy birthday or Mother’s Day gifts of potting soil for her. She would have been so pleased to get to see this area.
Our group gathered at the appointed time to board the return bus. Several of us wondered whether Keukenhof or Butchart Gardens in British Columbia was the most beautiful. Our straw poll gave the vote to this one. Back at the hotel, we rested for a while, then checked with the staff at the Viking desk to be sure we understood the process to get to the airport early tomorrow. We will leave the hotel at 4:30 am to catch our 7:00 flight. Viking will have a driver here for us and one other couple who must leave at that early hour. There will also be a breakfast box for us to take with us.
For this afternoon, I wanted to go to the top of the A’DAM Lookout. This is a tourist attraction at the top of a building which used to belong to Shell Oil, but now is a hotel. There is a quick elevator with sparkling lights as you go up and down. I kept my eyes closed as I did not want to risk motion sickness. The Lookout is 300 feet above the ground providing panoramic 360-degree views of Amsterdam. The apostrophe stands for the missing letters of MSTER.
This location is fast becoming an icon of the city. For the adventurous, there is a swing which swings out over the edge. Not my cup of tea! David and I took photos and decided to eat late lunch in the restaurant. David had a burger. I had a vegetarian sandwich-grilled zucchini, hummus, and yummy cheese. We both had fries which were served with catsup in small tubes like toothpaste. I liked being able to put it exactly where I wanted it! The food was great. David struck up a conversation with the waiter and learned he is a doctoral student.
To get from our hotel to the A’DAM Lookout, we walked to the train station, where from a walkway outside you can catch a free ferry that crosses the Amster River. The ferries are used instead of building a bridge. There are three of them moving at any one time, so there is hardly any waiting to board and crossing takes only a few minutes.
After lunch, we rode the ferry back to the train station and walked into town, following our city map to find the little clothing shop in the red-light district. I was quite pleased with myself for being able to find it. Unfortunately, they did not have the heels in my size, but I did buy some red velvet flats, so David was satisfied and now I had a souvenir from Amsterdam.
We decided to head back to the hotel. We ate lunch so late we do not want dinner. We needed to shower and pack and get ready for our early morning departure. Unless we have some extraordinary adventure flying home, I will stop this narrative here. How blessed we are to have had this amazing experience!
Friday, April 19 Travel home
I was
hoping for an uneventful three flights home, but we had the misfortune to be
routed through Chicago, and clearing immigration there was chaos! I will spare
you the details, but we missed our 4:00 pm connecting flight. Fortunately, there
was space on the 8:00 flight to Phoenix. That extra four hours made our overall
travel day 26 hours. We were certainly ready for bed when we got home! What a great trip! Thanks
for your prayers for our safe travel.
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