2001 - Bonnie's Journey to Brazil

Brazil 2001

Itinerary

March 1 and 2 Fly Delta from Phoenix to Atlanta to Rio

March 2 Transfer from Rio airport to Buzios

March 7 Return to Rio, Atlantis Copacabana Hotel

March 11 Fly Varig Airlines Rio to Iguazu

March 12 Jungle safari and Falls tour, Fly Varig to Curitiba

March 14 Fly Varig Curitiba to Sao Paulo; fly Tam Sao Paulo to Uberlandia

March 17 Bus from Uberlandia to Goiania

March 20 Fly Varig Goiania to Brasilia; Brasilia to Manaus; go direct to missions boat

March 21 -24 Medical boat on Amazon River

March 24 Jato speed boat Urucara to Manaus

March 25 Fly Varig Manaus to Rio

March 26, 27 Rio to Atlanta to Phoenix

Our friends, Julie and Pastor Lynn Cleaveland were missionaries in Brazil, where they established local churches.  These churches have since developed their own missions project of a medical mission boat on the Amazon. The boat provides medical care to villages along the Amazon during the day and conducts worship services in the villages in the evenings. The Cleavelands invited us to come along with them and serve on the medical boat that travels up the Amazon to tend to people in remote villages.  We gladly accept their offer. 

David made arrangements for us to spend several days on our own before joining our hosts. We start out in a small fishing village east of Rio called Buzios, a Brazilian resort set on an ocean peninsula. It's known as an upscale vacation destination with numerous beaches. It has luxury hotels and fine dining restaurants. David made arrangements to stay at a hotel through our timeshare membership.

We then stayed a few nights in Rio before going to see the giant waterfalls called Iguazu.

For reference:

Crewmembers:  Captain - Rio Mundo; Dentist Pract. - Tony; Cook – Joíya; Cleaning lady - Selena; Pastor Jeraldo; Church Youth Pastor – Denisé; Pastor at Sao Sebastiao – Elisen

Doctor Jóao, Nurse Beñta, Dr. Dentist Wayne and Nancy Jardiner.

Traveling with us: Lynn and Julie Cleaveland,

Earl and Ruth Anne Haubner,  Nancy

Mike and Shona Vincent, sons Tyler, Travis, Tanner

Robin Scates, Humberto, Hosanna, Silvio, Adopted daughter Sandra

Elaine, Harry Scates

Friday, March 2nd 2001 - Phoenix to Rio to Búzios

The sunrise outside the airplane window is cloudy. The sun glows golden through the haze. Below us are rolling hills thick with vegetation. Soon houses begin appearing on the hills becoming more and more densely populated as we grow closer to Rio. Finally, we clear an area of ocean and land the plane practically on the shore in a smooth touchdown. The plane unloads quickly and we follow the crowd to passport control. David is asked how long he is staying. We both get passports stamped and move forward to luggage claim. Our bags soon arrive on the belt, and we proceed to customs.

A woman examines our documents we filled out on the plane. We go to the next step, handing custom forms to the agent. He looks them over and asks us to press a button that randomly selects baggage to be checked. We get a green light, and he walks us through. We exit customs into the airport proper.

While David was claiming bags, I exchanged $100 and got back $5 free. Now we have local currency and are in Rio. We hit our first snag when the driver is not here to meet the flight. We sit and wait. I use the restroom which is clean and free and acceptable facility. As it turns out the driver is a no show for hours. We do not have a local phone number - left it at home. Boo. I tried calling Jose at the travel agency but only got voicemail as it is too early in the morning. We kept looking for a driver and, finding none, finally I asked a young woman at tourist info for help. She says her English is not good, she understands more than she speaks.

First, I asked for a phone number for the La Chimere hotel where we are staying in Buzios. She cannot locate a number. It occurs to me that the local travel agent also made arrangements at Copacabana Hotel, so I asked her to call there to get the name of the local agency. This tactic is successful. She calls the agency who phones their guy on his cell phone at the airport. He is sitting right next to the tourist info office. LOL! I gave the young woman a $5.00 US tip which she tried to refuse. Her name was Grasiele Melo, our heroine of the day.

We boarded a van, got shifted to another, and rode 2 hours to Búzios. The countryside is high rolling hills heavily forested with shrubs like scrub oak. We see horses, cows, and sheep. We stop at a market which has restrooms then go on into Búzios. 

Central Buzios

Others are dropped at their hotels and we finally get to ours. With no vouchers, we wonder if we will have a place, but our name is on the list. Eureka!

La Chimere-our residence

La Chimere pool

Pensive Bonnie

La Chimere exterior

La Chimere exterior

La Chimere interior

We are shown a pretty ground floor room with private bath. We dropped our stuff and go out to look at the beach - not as big as we had expected, but still a beach. 

Buzios beach

We got some lunch at an outdoor cafe across from the hotel. I had a hamburger and David had one with an egg. We returned to the hotel for a nap - necessary after not much rest last night on the plane. We turned on the AC and were comfortable. I slept an hour and a half while David slept 2 1/2.

We walked around looking for a restaurant, selected one, and had a great dinner. 

Buzios dinner restaurant

I had chicken and he had beef. Both cost about $12.00 US. We went back to the hotel to plan for tomorrow and then crash. Expenses today included a $5 tip, $3.50 lunch, $12.50 dinner.

Saturday, March 3^rd - Búzios

At midnight last night a group came in from Centro and said goodbyes from the patio outside our window. Their voices woke me, and I thought they must be gathering for breakfast. They shortly moved on to their rooms and I happily return to bed. We woke at 7:30 before the alarm, dressed and went to breakfast.

This lovely inn serves breakfast in a very nice dining room with china dishware and cloth napkins. We were served tall pots of hot coffee and tea. Next came fruit, sliced watermelon and a thick slice of pineapple. A basket of assorted breads was presented with croissants, sliced bread, sweet bread and a coffeecake-like bread. Also came thinly sliced ham and chunks of two types of cheese. A dish of cottage cheese topped with cinnamon – delicious! There was food left over.

Breakfast table

Breakfast table-tall pots

We returned to our room to prepare for the day. We had decided last night to take a trolley tour of Búzios so collected our cameras put on sunscreen and a hat. The exchange rate is about $1 for 2R$ (Brazilian reals.) We exchanged $40 US money we spent 50R$ on the tour trolley 18R$ on lunch and 10R$ at the beach shop, 24R$ for a T-shirt and a dollar for water. We almost decided against the trolley tour because it cost more than we were told last night, but we decided to go and we're glad we did.

Tour trolly with David waving from the back

The guide spoke only Portuguese. Another tourist from Brazil spoke a few words of English and befriended us, giving us a few words in English to translate what the guide was saying. The roads are very steep, sometimes covered with cobblestones and sometimes just dirt. Our driver geared down for the hills. We saw several beaches and stopped often for photos and views.

Buzios sightseeing

One of many Buzios beaches

Cactus on the beach

Buzios beach and waves

At one stop the driver spoke of the energy and wave action in the air and had his group close their eyes and inhale and exhale deeply several times. He spoke of the spirit of the ocean and said this was a good place for meditation.

This is a fishing village, and there are statues of fishermen on the water. We also watch real fishermen.

Fishermen statues

Fishing boats

Live fishermen

We also stopped at Orla Brigitte Bardot, a picturesque waterfront promenade named after the iconic French actress Brigitte Bardot. The promenade is adorned with a bronze statue of Bardot, commemorating her influence in bringing international attention to the area. In 1964 Bardot escaped to Buzios with her Brazilian boyfriend. Celebrities from Mick Jagger to Madonna have followed. Bardot's name is on everything from the boardwalk to restaurants. Most famous is her life-size bronze statue tucked away on the narrow boardwalk.

David with Bardot
Shopping area

We were dropped off in Centro where we shopped and ate lunch before heading to our pousada, or inn.

Central Buzios

Central Buzios

Flowers everywhere

Happy clerk and customer

A bench in central Buzios

Preparing to grill

Fish served hot and delicious

 

 It was a very warm day, and we were perspiring by the time we got back. We unloaded and lay down to rest.

Búzios is definitely a beach town, and bikinis are the dress of the day. Women often use a cover up off the beach, but a bikini top can be seen on any aged woman about anywhere. Shops selling bikinis and beach wear abound.

 There is a huge Royal Caribbean cruise ship docked in the bay. Water taxis shuttle folk bath and forth all day long. When we stopped for a chopp, which means beer and pizza for lunch, David struck up a conversation with a man who wore an Acapulco hat. They began in Spanish but the man said he was from England, so they quickly switched to their common language. We learned the man and the woman he was with were entertainers on the ship. She sings and he is a juggler. They have been around the world and this summer are doing weekly cruises from the Brazilian coast.

 We spoke of politics and language and travel they gave us some food tips for Brazil and Rio.

The maid is sweeping the patio, practically a constant sound here with all the trees and plants dropping their leaves. People here are of a variety of skin tones from very dark black to white. Hair is of every color. About 90% of the people on the cruise ship are Brazilian. There are Danes staying at this inn with us.

 While I am napping, David walks to the beach to people watch. He drinks a beer then notices a family with two little boys. He says he is a journalist and asks to photograph the kids. Parents agree and seem pleased. David returns to shower, and we walk to Centro for dinner. We look at several restaurants finally choosing Don Juan. David orders an Argentine beef steak. I have fish. It's a very nice restaurant with atmosphere and great food. The entire dinner including my dessert cost $40 US.

 On the street we pass a vendor selling soccer jerseys - just what Brian asked for. David got one for Brian's birthday and we felt very pleased with ourselves.

We wandered about Centro where there were lots of people and lights, very busy with the tour ship here. We finally headed for home and David wanted to take a short cut. We headed down a dark street away from town, met the highway and walked parallel to the beach for about a mile. We think we are lost and getting farther away. David asks for directions and we took a short block back to the main beach road. I am relieved. There has been great celebration because of a soccer win. A big parade and a party on the beach. We headed to our room at about 10:00.

Sunday, March 4th - Búzios

Fruit at breakfast this morning was papaya and banana. I asked for our juice to be served without ice. David recognizes the music being played in the background as a Brazilian group selling recordings in the states, but he can't remember their name. He asks the waitress, and she calls to a man outside who tells us the group is Ayala. David and I are both feeling the effects of walking yesterday and I suggest a laid-back day. David has been thinking of the beach, so we decide to go. I took pictures of the kitchen ladies who were so pleased and straightened their aprons and posed. I also took photos of the patio of the inn.

The La Chimere cooks

David negotiated with the desk clerk about calling a taxi to take us to the beach and drop us off then return to pick us up at 3. David also got help from this clerk to rent snorkel gear for the day. The taxi picked us up, drove by the diving shop and went in with David to pick up the gear. The dive shop wants a 50R$ deposit which he doesn't have. Finally, David says he will leave without it and also says he's staying at La Chimere. The dive shop clerk says oh you called from La Chimere, then it's okay. Meanwhile I wait in the cab another man gets in and drives forward just moving the car out of the intersection. Folks everywhere here have cell phones.

 The taxi takes us to the beach and promises to return at three. We pay him in full as instructed by the hotel clerk.

Buzios beach

We walked out to the horseshoe beach trying to sort things out. I suggest sitting at a table with an umbrella till they chase us out. Soon a young man named Alex who works there stopped by. His English is good, and I say so. He says he lived in the US for seven years we have a lengthy conversation with him and learn he is eager to work in the US. His job here pays $300.00 a month US. He tells us that now it is low season we can sit at the table all day. He tells me where the bathroom is.

 David enjoys the water but says it is too murky to see with the snorkel gear. I buy a Coco Gelato, a natural coconut with a straw to drink the juice. We spend the day reading and journaling and David gets some sun. A beach artist stops by to show his paintings, and I buy a primitive he says won him a medal in New York City. He is Polish but has lived in Brazil now for 30 years. He approaches me speaking French but when I say no, he switches to English. He's quite a character and when I buy a painting he kisses my hand goodbye. 

 Next, he comes by to offer a lunch special of fish and rice and potato chips. The chef brings two fresh fish for us to see whole. We select the snapper which they grill and serve with his fruit salsa - it is wonderful - better than my expensive fish last night. We clean our plates and celebrate our good fortune to be here.

Coco Gelato

Beach chefs

Served to perfection

Alex convinces a beach vendor to let us taste a papaya dish with honey or some sweet sauce - it's great.

 We finished the wonderful lunch and picked up our things. It was getting close to 3:00 and it was time for our taxi driver to return for us. We go to the phone near the road where we were dropped off. We wait for 45 minutes, wondering if our driver has ripped us off. Finally, a taxi comes, and David asks, "La Chemire?" The driver says yes, and we climb in. David says we need to stop at the dive shop and the driver takes us to the owner's house. David has to explain he is returning things rented at the shop. We go on to La Chimere and get out thanking the driver. He toots his horn as we leave. Clearly, he wants to be paid. David asks the hotel clerk to explain, but it is not Paul who made the arrangements but another man who sides with the driver. There is some arguing and the driver threatens to call the police. Finally, David gives in and pays the second driver but is angry and feeling ripped off. We ask ourselves how we could be such foolish tourists.

I shower and both David and I read for a while. We ate a large lunch late and aren't too hungry, so we decide to buy bread and cheese and ham and make sandwiches. We exchanged some money then headed to the market. David asks for cold meat and the deli guy sends us across the street to the carniceria (meat market). I don't want to buy meat there. We considered getting an appetizer at a nearby restaurant but returned to the markets and this time better made our needs known. We bought 3 rolls with sliced cheese and ham and a bottle of water. Returning to the pousada to eat outside at a patio table. We talk to the woman who manages the place here and David tells her our story about the taxi. She promises to talk to Paul about it tomorrow. We go back to our room to read for the evening.

Monday, March 5^th - Búzios

We awake to the sounds of voices in the compound. It's nearly 8:00. We get up and dress and head out for breakfast. The fruit this morning is a hefty slice of pineapple and a slice of melon like honeydew but with yellow skin. We bring our bread, ham and cheese back to the room for snacks later. There's a fridge in the room.

David decides he wants to golf today, so we asked the desk to make arrangements for a taxi and a tee time. We count our cash, and David goes to get some exchanged. The taxi driver arrives and, to avoid a repeat of yesterday, the driver comes inside. David pays for a round trip in front of the hotel clerk. The driver is Sylvio. He takes us outside town to the golf course. After dropping us off, he comes inside to be sure we want to stay. David finds out golf costs 90.00 $R for club rental and fees. The taxi is 50$R round trip David confirms a 3:30 pick up time and we head out. The pro shop guy wants us to take a caddy but David declines. It takes us a few minutes to figure out the layout of the course and David drives off the first tee. It is hot and windy. The fairways are very dry but the greens, while dry are green at least and fast.

A not-so-famous course

Putt it in

On the green

No caddy!

We can see the ocean at one high spot but otherwise we are pretty low in a valley. The sun is relentless and, though we are drinking water, we are heating up. David is carrying his clubs and getting too hot, so he finally quits after 13 holes. We rest in the clubhouse and chat with a woman from Washington. Our taxi appears at 3:40. Hooray!

We get back to the hotel, shower and eat the ham and cheese sandwiches from this morning's breakfast. Then we sit by the pool to write and read. The hotel gives David $13 from the taxi problem yesterday. Way to go! There are people here now with two children. The little boy about 3 or 4 has a loud shriek often and he cries a lot. At 6:00 PM I call Jami and Tammi thinking it is 10:00 PM instead it's 2:00 PM. Jami is at home on a week between classes and Tammi is home ill so it's my good fortune to talk to both of them. Tammi says they took Jami to South Dakota for her college interview, and she loved it.

We walked to town for a pizza and spent considerable time trying to find the post office. David talked with the waiter Luis Carlos whose wife was hanging around the restaurant. It was Luis who wrote the word for post office on a paper so we could ask others to help us find it. We finally head for home about 9:00 PM. Both of us have had enough walking for the day

Tuesday, March 6th - Búzios

We wake up to sweep, sweep, sweeping on the courtyard and have breakfast. This morning is a homemade fruit cocktail- very good. David gets leftover bread, cheese and ham from another table for our lunch. We ask about doing laundry but Paulo at the front desk says it can't be back until after three tomorrow and we leave about noon, so we will do it in Rio. 

We walked to the post office for stamps for postcards, successfully finding it today after not being able to last night. We are in town too early for the shops to be open, so we buy some postcards and head back to the hotel. David takes photos as we walk along the shore. We see some policemen and David asks if we can buy a uniform shirt as a souvenir. They agreed to meet us at 3:00 to give them time to go home for lunch and to get the shirt. Yahoo!

We go back to the hotel to read and write. David naps for a while until awakened by the electric saw of a carpenter working in another room. We write postcards and lunch on the bread cheese and ham from breakfast. We shower and read more while waiting to meet the police at three. We head out about 2:30 arriving at our meeting place at 2:40 and wait until 3:15 but no police. We figured they have chickened out. Maybe it's not OK to sell their shirts. We walked back into town and the shops still aren't open. We go to the restaurant for cold drinks and a small pizza Romano. It's great and we while away an hour.

Back at the shop we find it open and buy three sets of placemats as souvenir gifts. We go back to the post office for more stamps since we have used most of our supply and do a bit more souvenir shopping but don't buy anything. We stopped for ice cream and head back to the hotel. Guess what? The police are there and ask about the 3:00 meeting time I say we were there till 3:30. They say they got a very big shirt for me. I pay them for it. 

As I near our hotel there is a commotion near an electric line which is hissing and shooting sparks. I crossed the road in case the line drops. It stops hissing and I go in to tell the hotel clerk about it. He comes outside but doesn't seem to be worried. Back in the room we collect books and go outside where it is cooler to read. Finally, a fax comes to confirm our transport to the Atlantica in Rio tomorrow at 2:00 PM. We hang out at the hotel tonight reading. Expenses for the day in US money $20.00 for the police T-shirt $33 for placemats $9 for drinks and pizza $12.50 for postage stamps and $2.50 for ice cream

Wednesday, March 7th - Búzios to Rio

We both have some minor sunburn by now despite my consistent use of sunscreen, my arms are speckled, and I have a strip of red around my right neck where I must have missed with the sunscreen. David has been more cautious about the sun than usual. He is red, especially his back, and his forehead is already peeling but he has been putting on his T-shirt after time in the sun.

Today is a travel day, but our transport is scheduled for afternoon.

 This morning, we eat breakfast again gathering food for later. We have coffee and tea in the courtyard discussing what to see in Rio reading the maps and tour guides. David opts for some final beach time and negotiates with Paulo the desk clerk that we will be out of our room by noon. We quickly gather up and walk to the beach about half block away. The water is much clearer today and would be good for snorkeling. David wanders up the beach picking up shells and stones. We stay at the beach till 11, then returned to the pousada stopping for fish magnets as souvenirs along the way. Back at the La Chimere we shower and pack, give tips to the maids, exchange more money, and settle on the patio to read and wait for the van to Rio.

The van scheduled for 2:00 PM arrives about 2:30 not bad. Paulo presents us with a bill for the soda and water we used from the fridge. We load up having said our goodbyes earlier. I forgot my water sitting under the table, Oh well. The van picks up another couple and a family of three. We head out in the heat, though the van has some air conditioning. David and I tried to read road signs and show concern to each other about how fast the driver is going. There is lots of burning in the fields.

 At the halfway point we stopped for a bathroom break and snacks. David strikes a conversation with the young woman in the family. We later found out she was 16. She has great English. We wound up talking to her the rest of the way into Rio. What a mature and delightful woman. She told us about Argentina where she is from.

Rio is huge and polluted. We drive in traffic for an hour. The others are dropped off first. We get to our hotel about 6:00 PM. They are expecting us! David has done a great job scheduling this trip.

We check in and go to the room. The valet helps with the bags. Our room is small but clean and has a table and chairs and two twin beds. The safe has a key which costs $100 if it's lost. We will be here three days. We go downstairs to book 2 tours - one of the city and one on a boat. We left the one day in the middle open for laundry and the beach. Then we go to the top of the hotel and try to see the city in the dark. We can see Christ the Redeemer statue high up and the city lights. A little slice of beach can also be seen. We come back to the room to unpack. David goes to buy a beer for him and an ice cream bar for me. Oops no ice cream! We read and go to bed.

Our hotel-Atlantis Copacabana

Christ the Redeemer statue

Copacabana beach at night with Sugarloaf in background

Rio at night

 Thursday, March 8^th - Rio

I did not sleep very well last night, too warm I guess, plus folks kept coming out of the elevator talking loudly and waking me up. Then David woke with the sunrise at 5:00 or so, so I didn't race out of bed, but still needed to be ready for the 8:30 city tour. I finally got up about 7, dressed and packed up for the day.

We went down to breakfast which is included in the price of this hotel. They had a buffet of fruits and juices, scrambled eggs and sausage, a variety of breads, cheese and ham, and yogurt. I also got a small package of cookies - good breakfast. David had eggs and I had yogurt.

We went to the lobby to wait for the tour, and they were on time. We boarded a big, air-conditioned bus which continued to pick folks up from other hotels. Finally, we drove out along the beaches into downtown where we visited the cathedral of Saint Sebastian, a tall modern beehive shaped building. It has huge stained-glass windows on each side and holds 20,000 people.

Saint Sebastian Cathedral

Stained glass inside cathedral

We drove by the aqueduct, originally used to carry water but now converted to tracks for the trolley.

Overview of Rio, aqueduct middle right

Aqueduct and trolley

 We passed other impressive buildings like the library and opera house, but we did not stop. 

Rio opera house, white on right

We drove past the slums called favelas. They are densely populated informal settlements with makeshift housing and limited infrastructure. They are a significant part of the landscape, with an estimated 1.5 million people living in 1000 favelas. Many face challenges with access to basic services like sanitation, clean water, and waste management. Favelas are known for their vibrant culture, including music, dance and community spirit, but also for issues related to crime and drug trafficking.

favelas

favelas

We drove to the huge soccer field called Maracana Stadium and paid admission to go in to see it. Very impressive!  It has a seating capacity of 78,838. It hosted the 2016 Summer Olympics opening and closing ceremonies.

Maracana Stadium

Maracana Stadium

We drove to Sugarloaf and took the cable car to the top. Sugarloaf Mountain (Pao de Acucar in Spanish) is 1300 feet tall and named for its resemblance to the traditional shape of concentrated refined sugar. Corcovado is the nearby mountain where the giant statue of Christ the Redeemer stands.

Corcovado and Sugarloaf

Sugarloaf

Cable car up Sugarloaf

Side of Sugarloaf going up

Then we had a Brazilian style Rhodesia lunch called churrascaria. In these restaurants, servers bring around large cuts of various meats and slice off what you want at your table. I struck up a conversation with Scott, a Hawaiian here on business. We ate lunch with him and visited most of the day. He freelances making films as promotions and ads.

Getting slices of pork

 Then we drove through the Tijuca Forest up to Corcovado to see the statue of Christ the Redeemer. We climbed the 220 steps to the top quite a view! 

Rio from the top of Corcovado

David the photographer

More of Rio from the top

David and Bonnie with Sugarloaf in background

Sunset over Sugarloaf

We ran into the 16-year-old and her parents again and still didn't get her name or photo.

We met at 5:00 to return to town and dropped everyone at their hotels- everyone but us! We missed the hotel call when the guide said Atlantis. Our hotel is Atlántico Copacabana, and she didn't say that! So she and the bus driver drove that big rig all the way down Copacabana beach to drop us off. She and the driver were critical of us in Portuguese. David could follow it well enough to understand. When we got back to the hotel, she said, "Remember your hotel is Atlantis." She and David exchanged a few words. Her loss - no tip; our loss - home 45 minutes late, but we enjoyed the tour.

We dropped our stuff off in the room and headed down to the beach, because we had been disagreeing about where it was from the hotel. We found the beach and walked along for a while then looked for the laundromat. The hotel clerk told David where it was. We were close but didn't find it. David passed two women on the street and they kindly showed it to us. Hooray! Now we can wash clothes tomorrow. 

We headed back to the beach and browsed at the flea market set up at the beach market. We saw metal cups 2 for 5R about $2.50 each and I paid 6 $R for one at Corcovado today. We stopped at Bobby's Fast Food and got sandwiches at 9:15pm. The clerk had another customer help her translate our order. We ate outside. A couple of young kids, maybe eight years old were practicing saying "I want a French fry". David bought them an order. He's a softy. We walked on the sand of Copacabana toward the hotel. Finally, we got in, showered, and settled down for bed at nearly midnight.

Friday, March 9th - Rio

We slept well. The room was cooler, and we woke about 7 dressed and went to breakfast downstairs. We talked to a doctor from the states who is here alone. He has some local contacts and has been shown around by cariokes or locals. Today he is doing the tour we did yesterday-a nice guy.

Our first chore today is laundry and finding a visa ATM, both of which we completed successfully by 11:00 AM but of course not without help. First, we asked the hotel clerk where the bank was located, then we walked carrying laundry several blocks. We stopped at a bank and David tried the card with no success. A man offered help and said we were using the machine used only for checks. We move to another machine and the man guides us through the steps then walks away but we get no money. So, a woman walks us through. Voila! 500$R. That gives us cash for the tours here plus 100 USD leftover.

We head on a few blocks to the laundry. Our timing is terrific. There are washers available. I bought 4 tokens each costing 4$R or $2.00 US. I use two for the washers and two for the dryers. While I wait David goes to try the Internet unsuccessfully, then wanders to the beach. I read while waiting and take photos of the place and people watch. Timing again is good for the dryers. I see that others have had to wait. Our clothes get dry. It's been raining outside but is stopping we packed things up and walked back to the hotel noticing a shoe shop on the way. Both of us have broken sandals.

We got back to the hotel dry, put away the clothes, and write postcards. I tried to get an iron, but the clerk says, "We don't borrow irons." David grumbles about the cloudy day wondering about whether to go to the beach but decides to go. Surprise! So I get ready for lunch on the beach and apply some screened liberally for the beach time. We debate about taking our sandals to be repaired but David is anxious to get to the beach and wants to wear his sandals so we decided against it. We packed up and stopped at the front desk for an umbrella and towels. Then out and to the right.

Copacabana and Ipanema beaches are essentially side by side, but not connected. Copacabana is the bright shiny neighborhood full of tourists. Ipanema is generally where the famous people stay when visiting Rio.

Copacabana neighborhood and beach

A bit crowded?

 David hasn't said so, but his plan is to go to Ipanema beach. We walked there - it's only about two blocks - and surveyed the beach for a spot. Much of the beach is wide open. We find a spot and set up camp. David gets in the water and finds it oily. He wants to move so we head further down the beach and try again. David got in the water and found it cold. Some fellows came up to fish and we watched them for a while. 

Ipanema boardwalk

Bonnie on Ipanema

Ipanema beach

Two boys about 10 or 12 came and put their things near us though there is much room all around we decide to be cautious and pull our things closer to us. I read while David suns and gets in the water. He finally decides we should move to where there are chairs, so we pack up again and head even further south. We see a cluster of umbrellas and decide to check it out. We aren't sure of the protocol about chair rental but decide to head over.

David points to two chairs set up on the beach and the attendant moves them and offers to help put up the umbrella. We settle in comfortably. I'm reading and people watching while David is alternately sunning and in the water though he says it is still cold. He reads some too.

Bonnie and David on Ipanema Beach 

I head out to the beach bathroom a ways down the beach. It has a fence around it and costs one R$, about 50 cents US. It is worn but modern and clean. On the way back I noticed some mailboxes for our postcards and stopped to buy David a beer. He is very appreciative and feels spoiled. I get the postcards and head back down the beach to mail them.

Near the mailbox is a police kiosk and I approach asking the two officers if I can take their picture. They nod and stand up straighter. I say thanks and head out to find McDonald's. I saw a sign. McDonald's two blocks off the beach and up the block. I snap a photo then order the number one Big Mac fries and a drink. It costs 575 R$, about $3 US. As I head back to the beach on another street, I see another policeman near his car, watching the beach. I asked him too for a picture and he nods. As I am ready to snap, I look out from behind the camera and motion for him to smile. He responds and I get a nice shot. Then it's back to the beach with David's sandwich. He is very appreciative and says my actions are being noticed by several gay couples nearby. We read and relax more but I have to keep moving to stay in the shade.

Finally, at 4:45 PM David suggests we head back. We pack up, turn in our chairs, and mosey back to the hotel, drop our stuff in the room and head to the top of the hotel to have a look around in daylight. We take photos and I head to the room to shower while David takes more pictures. We make reservations for Porcol restaurant, a pricey place, but one recommended by the entertainers we met in Buzios.

David goes out to buy water for me. He returns to shower and read until time to go to Porcol. We get a cab driver named Alex. He says he is studying English by watching CNN news and the Discovery Channel. We agree before leaving that the taxi will cost 10R$. He says it would be safe for us to walk home by way of Ipanema beach.

He drops us off and we are greeted warmly and ushered into the restaurant. This is a Rodizian style restaurant, with all you can eat salad bar, meats sliced at your table, and fresh seafood and salmon. We eat a lot and have dessert. Mine is papaya cream recommended by Fodors. It's wonderful.

Though it has been raining we decide to walk home. The doorman points us toward the beach and we head out, but after a few blocks decide we aren't headed right, so David asks for directions again. We need to turn left to the beach. We passed the drug store and buy more toothpaste. We still need to get film. It's a delightful walk home. David goes out for water for me tomorrow. He starts reading and I'm heading for bed. We get up early tomorrow for a day on a boat.

Saturday, March 10 - Angra Snorkeling

We've set the alarm to be ready for a 7:15 pick up for the snorkeling tour to Angra. At breakfast, we chat with the doctor, Kevin, whom we met yesterday. He is pleasant and asks lots of questions about the things he plans to do. I loaned him our Fodor's guide to look at for a bit.

The bus is late and other tour participants ask at the desk and are told to be patient. Finally, the bus comes about 8:00 AM. There are other hotel pickups, and we are finally on our way. We are headed South and even though I took my Marezine I got sick. I took more Marezine and the bus stopped at a rest stop, so I walked outside to get fresh air. I recovered fairly quickly by sleeping for 30 minutes or so. The tour location is wonderful with a big bay. We board a 60-foot schooner. Music blasts from the speakers as we get settled. People peel off layers. The sun is warm, and a great day lies ahead. I had an ice cream bar. We stop at three areas for swimming and snorkeling.

David aft

Bonnie and David on the boat

Alexander lifts a beer

Alexander (a common name here), our guide is bright, an attorney, and bilingual. He worked hard to show everyone a good time. People on the boat are friendly and in a party mood. Juice drinks are served, but we decline. I read while David swims. There are yellow and black striped fish, attracted to the boat when bread is thrown into the water. It begins to cloud up and we hear occasional thunder.

Snorkelers and boats in the bay

David is the one with the mask 

About 3:00 we head back to shore for lunch. It is self-service with a salad bar and meats and beans and rice. Very tasty. I tried to buy a purse, but the clerk does not know how to use my visa card. We buy film at the camera shop in the mall. 

We boarded the bus for a quiet ride home, but the rain has started and becomes a downpour. The road is covered with water and vehicles are becoming stranded. The bus plows through. Alexander entertains us at the end with a tambourine, showing us samba rhythms. Finally, we arrive at the hotel. These people are friendly and as each group leaves the bus Ciao! is hollered out. A woman slipped on the wet bus aisle and hurt her leg where she has had two surgeries. Back in our room, we shower and pack, readying ourselves for the next adventure.

Sunday, March 11th - Rio to Iguazu

Today is the third leg of our journey planned by David before we meet our hosts. We will travel to Iguazu Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage site which is a breathtaking waterfall system located on the border of Argentina and Brazil. It is one of the three largest waterfall systems in the world, taller than Niagara Falls, and wider than Victoria Falls. For its sheer size and beauty, Iguazu Falls is the best choice. Iguazu means "big water" in the local native language.

It is renowned for its immense power and beauty, featuring hundreds of individual waterfalls stretching across a two-mile area. It is a complex of hundreds of waterfalls, some large and powerful and others smaller and more delicate. The most famous is the "Devil's Throat", a U-shaped cataract plunging 269 feet. We will view the falls from the Brazilian side, which provides for panoramic views and great photography.

The falls are also known for the powerful mist they create, which can be seen for miles away and often produces beautiful rainbows. The falls are surrounded by a vibrant Atlantic Rainforest, renowned for its biodiversity. It is characterized by a dense and humid environment with abundant rainfall, supporting a variety of plant life. The rainforest is home to diverse wildlife, including monkeys, coatis, toucans, squirrels, birds and butterflies. There is a butterfly sanctuary located within the rainforest.

We get up at 4:10 AM to finish packing and get checked out. The van is due at 5:30 but arrives at 5:50, picks up another group and heads to the airport. There isn't much traffic this early and the driver runs red lights regularly. We arrive at the airport by 6:30 or so and after a couple of false starts are in the right line to check in. When we get to the counter the clerk sends us to pay airport tax before we get boarding tickets. The airport is large, clean and modern. We make it to the gate, but learn the flight is delayed because of weather. The airport at Curitiba is closed.

The language here is rather harsh sounding. Lots of tongue thrust sounds like SH, CH, TH. They have trouble with short vowel sounds and often drop the ends of words. When the tour guide for the city tour spoke about tips she said "cheeps are permit". Waiting at the airport we meet a couple from California who are also going to Iguazu. We chat awhile and learned they plan a cruise around the tip of South America.

 They call our plane about on time after all. We board and are served a nice breakfast in route. Arriving at Iguazu we are met by a young 18-year-old woman, Brisa, who we learned later is at our disposal while we are here. She takes us to the van with a driver named Luciano. We drive to the hotel, chatting about the area with Brisa. She is a law student and meets tours as a part time job.

Arial view of hotel and falls

Cataract Hotel

When we get to the hotel things are pretty hectic, with lots of folks checking in. Brisa learns we do not have a room reserved, despite our voucher. We go to a table near the bar to talk. David is not happy about not being able to get into a room. This place is expensive, and he expects good service. Brisa goes back to the desk and returns with a key. We talk about our plans for the time here and decide to do today on our own. Brisa will come tomorrow at 9:00 to show us the falls again and take us to the Mocoku safari trip.

The hotel is working on the electricity, and the air conditioner won't operate, but we don't care as we are heading to the falls anyway. We walk slowly down the path to the falls. We see lots of butterflies of all sizes and colors, coatimundi roam around like squirrels. We see lizards and giant spiders, (big as a saucer!) but mostly we see the falls - awesome! David thinks they are more fantastic than the Grand Canyon. They drop with a thunderous roar into two levels. The pathway built for viewing offers many opportunities to view the falls from various vantage points. We take lots of photos, spending the afternoon. Returning to the hotel we have a late lunch then get into the pool. A couple from San Diego chats with us till we get out.

Falls to the left

Falls across from us

Bonnie at the falls

Giant spider

Another giant spider

This huge spider was suspended overhead!

Lunch on the hotel patio

Hotel pool

David at hotel with falls behind

The Cataract hotel has a red tile roof. The building is pink trimmed in white, surrounded by a lovely garden of rosebush hedges, shrubs and trees, palms, exotic plants, and ferns, a huge pool and a long triangular drive. There is a bell tower above the reception area and a gazebo-like extension facing the drive. It's two stories high with large windows that cross the front, finished above with decorative arches shaped like little wishbones, red tile stairs and entryway.

Rooms have rich dark wooden floors laid in wide planks. It's impressive but not imposing and reminds me of the Broadmoor. Stair railings have ornately turned wood spindles supporting the banisters. Huge wide hallways flanked by white doors to the rooms grouped in pairs. Some upper rooms have balconies with double doors opening out.

We stay at the pool until it's too dark to read then go inside and organize our belongings. David watches TV while I read. About 8:00 I'm ready to crash, after getting up at 4:00 AM. So we turn in.

David had asked at the front desk and it was safe to drink the water. They said yes so he had a glass then was up for a couple of hours for the consequences, finally taking an anti diarrhea pill. He seemed recovered before morning

Monday, March 12th - Iguazu

We were supposed to do the safari tour yesterday, but we waited until this morning and now it's closed for maintenance. Boo! Island time! So we hang out at the pool for a while planning to go down to the falls again and meet the safari folks at 1:00. We take the same path to the falls today noticing different things. One surprise is a snake on the path. It's about 5 foot long, black with the front half of the snake sprinkled with yellow. The staff are interested, maybe they don't see too many. They say it isn't poisonous. Breakfast this morning is self-served. There's some cheese and ham, several kinds of bread, juices, cereals and fruit. We eat outside and watch the coatimundi scamper around trying to beg or even steal food.

We are picked up by the safari tour Jeep about 1:00 in front of the hotel. We drive about a mile away to their site. They invite us to use insect repellent then lead us in a little trailer with seats pulled behind the Jeep. Our guide speaks good English. We are touring with three folks from Britain. We drive first through the forest stopping for brief nature talks about the plants and animals. We get statistics on all the species in the park including 800 species of butterflies. 

Parrot

Tucan

Friendly butterfly

Devil's Throat

Bonnie at base of falls

Bonnie and David at viewing platform

The mist has me drenched!

David at viewing platform

At least I can smile about it!

David at another viewing area

Surrounded by falls!

A more distant view 

View from the fence

We disembark and take a jungle path for more of a guided tour past a waterfall and down to the river where we board the raft. There are seats in the raft and everyone wears a life jacket. The boat driver is experienced and stops at two times for photos. They have given us plastic bags to put our cameras in.

Down to the raft

life vests
Jeep 

Heading to the raft.

Wearing life jackets

Viewing falls from raft

Rafts at falls

We go upstream. The driver speaks Spanish to David who interprets saying the dividing line between the two countries runs down the river and we can't approach the Argentine side. We see the falls from the bottom and are excited as the guide takes us close to the roaring water. "As many times as you want," he says. The Brits are good sports and we go three times getting soaked then taking more photos. Heading back, we run some rapids downstream. Great fun! We dock and disembark. There are millions of butterflies!

My thought as we prepared to leave this magical place, full of water and roaring noise, with rainbows in every direction you look and butterflies filling the air, was that this must be what the landscape of heaven is like!

We're taken back to the hotel where we claim one bag from the equipment room and go to the pool dressing room for a cold shower and change into travel clothes. Brisa picks us up at 4:00. The hotel asks us to fill out a form about why we don't want to pay room tax. We think we paid it to the travel agent. So we load up and go to the airport. A photo with Brisa and we are in the check-in line then to the gate to wait.

Iguazu to Curitiba

We are now traveling to meet our hosts. Lynn and Julie are the ones who invited us. Their daughter Shona and husband Mike Vincent and their three sons now live in Curitiba. We will stay with them before heading to Uberlandia. We will all travel together from this point on.

 The plane arrives to pick us up in Iguazu and departs on time. We're eager for the meal they serve. We haven't eaten since breakfast. We have a meat and cheese sandwich, crackers and cheese, diced fruit and candy bar. We arrive in Curitiba on time and our luggage is among the first to appear. Lynn and Shona are waiting to meet us. They suggest we confirm flights for the 14th so Shona and I go to do that with Tam and Varig Airlines. Everything is OK. We leave the airport in the rain to head to the Vincent's apartment.

Downtown Curitiba

University of Parana-Curitiba

Federal University of Parana

Curitiba

 Mike and Shona have traded their small car for the week with a friend for their minivan. Shona gets us to their home - a huge apartment all on one floor of an apartment building. There's lots of space including room for the kids to play. That's good because there is no yard to speak of.

We unpack and wait for Mike to get home from work. He arrives and we head out to a churrascaria  barbecue - all you can eat. Servers bring various cuts of meat to your table for you to select.  There is also a huge salad bar. It's great food and great company and we stay till 11:00. 

Restaurant

Lynn is getting sliced beef.

We head home and crash. David and I sleep in one of the boys' rooms. I have a bed and David has a mattress on the floor. We sleep well.

Tuesday, March 13th - Curitiba

We awake to traffic noise outside about 6:30 and get up and dressed. The two older boys have to be at school at 7:30. Shona serves a huge breakfast, everything tastes great. We ask lots of questions about the culture and what it's like to live here. Shona is very open. I send an e-mail to Tammi and her family. Lynn and Julie, David and I walked down to the local park and walk the two-mile path around it and back. There are lots of folks jogging, biking, and walking. It's a warm, clear day, bright and sunny. I forgot to put on sunscreen and by the time we got back to the apartment I had had enough sun!

Julie, David and Lynn at the Park in Curitiba

Park in Curitiba

 We did errands and picked up laundry since Shona's dryer is broken, bought postage stamps and film. Lynn paid an artist for some pictures he had painted as gifts. Back at the apartment we joined Shona as she went to pick up the kids from a great private Portuguese school. The kids wear T-shirts and pants as uniforms. It's a quality educational arrangement with good security.

We rested for a while this afternoon while Lynn talked about his mission experience. We went to the bakery and bought a birthday cake for Mike and some pastries for me, David and Lynn. We talked about books and traded some. Shona has the novel Nicolae – hurray! It is the third book in the Left Behind series, and I have been searching for it. I can read it on the boat. 

We looked at the party room and pool at the apartment building while David napped. Later we decorated the house with balloons and crepe paper for Mike's birthday. We had pizza for supper with ice cream and cake. It was a moving intimate family portrait. We chatted, packed and showered and got ready to head out for a day of flying.

Lynn, Julie, Bonnie, David, Mike, Tyler

Wednesday, March 14th - Curitiba to Uberlandia

We wake up at 6 to finish packing and have a great breakfast. Mike checks but no e-mail from Tammi. The van arrives to take us to the airport about 40 minutes away. The city looks like one in America, with service stations, auto dealerships, shops, and commercial enterprises. We promptly arrive at the airport.

Portal Santa Felicidade, Curitiba

Palacio Avenida, Curitiba

Alonso Pena International Airport

 

Alfonso Pena International Airport- Curitiba

We check in and have plenty of time to read before boarding. The flight is an hour long and uneventful. We are served a meal, but I keep mine for later. We land and claim our bags then take the elevator upstairs to check in for the connecting flight. Alas, we learn that our flight leaves from the other Sao Paulo airport and are directed to the TAM bus connection. The long drive is across the entire city, it seems. It is practically a tour of the city! We pass devastated favelas with cardboard for walls. We see residential areas with schools and go through commercial districts.

Latin America Memorial, Sao Paulo

Urban Park-Sao Paulo

Our Lady of Assumption Catholic Church, Sao Paulo

Favela

Guarulhos Airport-Sao Paulo

Finally, we arrive at the other Sao Airport, Guarulhos Airport, checking our watches. We check in at the curb and wander a bit to pick up postcards. David looks at Brazilian soccer team shirts but decides against the $40 price. We go in the gate and are directed to a sub-gate upstairs to wait. The minutes tick by with no sign of our travel companions who will join us on this flight. Finally, our flight is called. We go downstairs and board a bus that takes us down the tarmac past a long row of planes. We go to the end and make a U-turn, backing up to a TAM plane. We board, first confirming on the ground – "Uberlandia?" "Yes".

We expect to find the Cleaveland's and Vincent's there, but the plane is empty. We wait and wait, thinking any moment we will take off without our pals. Finally, a bus brings them. They have been on an incoming flight circling the airport because of air traffic and finally land, transported immediately by bus to our waiting plane. There are cheers all around as they find their seats. The flight takes about an hour, with Lynn craning his neck to see the countryside. Now we are in the High Plains full of agricultural fields.

We arrive in Uberlandia. The Scates are waving at us as we disembark and have recruited three cars to meet us. Umberto is our driver.  He is in the Scates' son-in-law. 

Scate's reception group

Loading the cars

We arrive at the Scates' house, unload, and get settled. We're very comfortable in a twin bedroom, with our own bath. We get a tour of the house which has three floors. The ground level is the garage and Harry's office. The next level is the main floor with two bedrooms, kitchen, living and dining room. Then the rooftop with a wall furnished like a patio with the washer and clothesline and a small enclosed room. Yet another level exists accessed by rungs mounted on the wall to a small tower with extended visibility. Lynn and Julie are excited about seeing their Old Town and are trying to take everything in.

Lynn on ladder at Scate's home

Bonnie on ladder

Uberlandia from the roof

Bonnie, Lynn and Harry on patio

We're served juice and fresh fruit. We spend the rest of the evening visiting. Shona, Mike and the boys join us on the patio for dinner which is delicious. We have bread with chicken and cheese, pasta salad, beans, fruit, and guava. We talk endlessly, finally clearing the dishes. Shona, Mike and the boys are transported back to Robin's. The six of us continued to talk until 11:00 PM. I give info to Julie and Elaine about our visit to Israel as the Scates planned to go in April.

Robin's House -Uberlandia

Thursday, March 5th - Uberlandia

We awaken about 6:00 AM to the traffic. We rise and shower and dress for breakfast. We eat on the patio with fresh fruit, juices, granola and milk, yogurt which is very liquid, great bread, honey, coffee, and tea. We visited about what's happening in churches in the USA. David loves all the philosophical discussions. Julie and I have collected laundry, and Elaine loads the machine with a white load. Later Julie and I hang them out, hiding our underwear behind the T-shirts which hang on the front of two lines.

David by the laundry at Scates

We decide to embark on the walk through downtown and leave about 9:30 AM. Harry is the tour guide, with Lynn joining in at times. We walked to the north square where they had the first English school. We're joined there by Mike and Shona and their two older boys. Tanner stayed at Robins to play. We walk all over town, looking out at the hotel and other buildings of significance to the Cleavelands. Finally, we arrived back at the Scates about 12:20 for lunch. People Lynn and Julie knew are there and a great reunion ensues, with photos and rapid exchanges in Portuguese and much laughter.

David buying water for me

David and Harry Scates

Julie, Bonnie, Lynn and Harry walking the city

Local restaurant

City Park-Uberlandia

David and I bring in the clothes from the line and hang out the second load. People keep arriving for lunch. About 1:00 a great meal is laid out of boiled vegetables including potatoes, carrots, green beans, beets, hearts of palm, all on shredded lettuce. The second plate contains lettuce and sliced tomatoes. The entree is a chicken casserole, a layer of mashed potatoes, shredded chicken, tomato paste, cream cheese, melted cheese, and a layer of shoestring potatoes on top - delicious!

David plays cards with the boys Tyler and Trevor teaching them hearts.

David teaching Tyler and Trevor to play hearts

 I am reading. The others visit, study scripture, and sing choruses in Portuguese - it's all very moving. About 5:00, some adults leave to see more sights, but David and I stay behind. We have the clothes on and off the line three times due to the brief light rain showers. I ironed everything but it still not dry. David naps while I read. We wait all afternoon and evening reading. Robin's oldest boy stops by and chats. He is 18. His English is fairly good. He has a class from 7:00 to 10:30 tonight to help prepare for the vestibular exam. He leaves about 6:45. Later Juliana stops by, too, surprised her grandparents aren't here. Finally, we get a call from Harry saying he'll be by in 30 or 40 minutes, but after an hour we decide to go to Raditzio pizza for dinner. We really enjoy it. The head waiter takes great care of us even speaks some English. We eat our fill, wondering if a place like this in the states wouldn't be a rage. It's great! 

We walk home leisurely and go back to reading. The Scates and Cleavelands arrive about 10:30, full of stories about their day, the reunions, and Brazilian hospitality.

Friday, March 16th - Uberlandia

We wake up with the traffic about 6:30, dress and have breakfast up on the patio, chatting till about 10. There's much discussion of politics, discrimination and lifestyles.

Then we are off to the hunting and fishing club called the Uberlandia Sports Club, originally a ranch  but now it has several ponds with water slides and places for picnics. The guys swim and we women chat. A Brazilian meal was prepared for us at the dining room, usually closed during the week. We had rice and beans, beef and chicken and vegetables. Seated with us and Lynn and Julie are Robin and Humberto and Hosanna and Silvio. Robin and Hosanna speak English to us through dinner and for more than an hour afterward. We discussed colloquialisms and differences in culture. Brazilians don't do maps or directions and don't like studying English directions. We discussed professors and lifestyles. We moved back to the pool about 4:00 PM.

Bonnie, Shona, Lynn, Julie, Elaine, Harry

Uberlandia Sports Club

We are all ready to head back, but Elaine has ordered food for us for dinner. She calls it pizza, but it's in a cake pan. The food will not be ready till 5:00 and we wait until 5:30 before it's done. Back to our hosts home about 6:00 to shower and dress for church at 8. Harry has borrowed a suburban to carry all of us. We arrive at church a large open building with a metal roof. They're building an expansion that will double the size. There's a band of adolescents with drums and guitars who start the service. Earl and Ruth Ann Haubner are missionaries through Novo Horizonte.

 Eventually, Lynn and Julie, Mike, David and I are introduced and walk on the stage. Lynn brings the message, speaking first in Portuguese greeting the people, but preaching in English. With Harry interpreting. It's a simple message, Who is Jesus? Lynn quotes scripture.

At the altar call which is done by another man, several folks come forward. There's a second call for those needing healing and prayer. A larger group moves forward. After the service Harry shows me and David around. We finally head for home about 10. I'm feeling really tired. I did not eat dinner, I'm still too full from lunch, so I have some ice cream and crash.

Saturday, March 17th - Uberlandia to Goiana by bus

We wake up and pack, have breakfast and get ready to leave, as we are going to take a tour of town and visit the children's home that the church runs. But a woman comes to visit Lynn in Julie and soon the Scates’ adopted daughter Sandra arrives with her family. All these folks visit up a storm. David and I get emails from his folks and Tammi. We reply and load up the car. We pick up the Vincents and take a partial tour. There's not enough time to see the children's home, so we head to the bus station and board. We have to show passports and tickets. The bus is large and comfortable. It is air conditioned but not too cool. We drive past miles and miles and miles of plains with cattle grazing and lots of crops including soy, corn, sugar cane, and coffee.

Uberlandia Bus Station

Boarding the bus to Goiania

On the bus

Gradually we enter hilly country with more trees. In places, the road was very rough and uneven, bouncing us around. Shona says which is worse, this rough road or air turbulence? We took a midpoint stop for a break. Finally, we arrive about 5:30. Earl and Ruth Ann Haubner meet us at the bus station. They have two cars but can't carry all nine of us and the luggage, so we got a taxi for Mike and Shona. We arrive at the hotel and get checked into our rooms. It's fine, has two beds and a bath. The hotel has a pool. Mike, Shona and their kids are staying here too.

Bonnie and David at Hotel in Goiania

Goiania Hotel

Hotel Amendociras Brochure

Hotel decor

 We unpack and the boys get in the pool. We sit by the pool for a while, then go out front to be picked up at 8 by the Haubner's. Supper is delicious! American food! Lasagna, salad, and garlic bread, with grape pie and ice cream for dessert.

Hotel pool

Earl and Elaine are American missionaries serving in Goiana, Brazil. The church they serve has created its own mission project of the medical mission boat.  Earl gives us the history of the purchase of the mission boat. They could not afford a boat costing $120,000 but while raising money for a $50,000 boat, they went to the states on furlough and spoke of the need for a boat and a man offered half or $25,000. When they went back, the exchange rate had changed enough to afford the bigger boat and a house!

The boat was purchased, and a physician from Rio was recruited as a volunteer to manage the boat clinic. He takes time from his practice in Rio every other month to be on the boat. He wants to focus on keeping children healthy. Since the locals use untreated water from the Amazon, the doctor gives the moms meds to treat the children for worms for a month, and vitamins for the children for the second month until the boat returns to start this over again. 

Meanwhile he treats adults for other injuries and illnesses as they present themselves. The boat is staffed by volunteers from the Goiana church. They recruit visitors from the US to help. This time besides all of us, there is a retired dentist and his wife along.

Haubner's house

Visiting at Haubner's

Visiting at Haubner's

We returned to the hotel and find our mattress brick hard. We go to sleep on it but in the night, David is pounding the mattress with his leg, so I'm invite him to move to the single bed, which has a softer mattress.

Sunday, March 18th - Goiana 

We awake before the alarm but stay in bed till it goes off at 6:45. David showers, we both dress, and go to the breakfast area. There are many kinds of bread and cheese, fruits and juices, and scrambled eggs.

Shona, Mike, Trevor, Tyler and Tanner at breakfast

We leave for church at 8 am and are warmly greeted by the folks. The service is group singing, then move to age classes, then return for a closing. The adult lesson is on faith, with 20 things to do to be successful. It's a good lesson and Earl has asked Thelma to translate for us. She welcomes the chance to practice her English.

We head to Haubner’s for a while before going to eat a buffet lunch. Great food! We pay for lunch and go back to the hotel where I take a nap and the kids play in the pool. We read and sun for a while. Suddenly at 6:00, Mike appears dressed for church and asks if we are planning to go. We did not know about the services at 7. I quickly changed. David decided not to go and the rest of us got to church about 6:15. Earl wanted to be there early for prayer. We listen to the band practice, visit the nursery, and watch the auditorium fill. Finally, the service begins. There are a few lively choruses, then 16 baptisms. People cheer and applaud as each one is immersed.

There are presentations by two youth groups and a theatrical presentation of movement and dance. A man gives testimony before the offering. Then we pass communion. Lynn gives the same message as last Friday and Earl interprets. Several children and one adult come forward at the altar call. As the service closes, Earl asks the Americans to go to the door for people to shake hands as they leave and many do. Then I'm asked to spend some time with Mario who tells me in Portuguese about Project Growth, the soccer evangelism he is directing with 430 kids. He has lots of photos and promotional material.

The plan is to pick up David and go to Earl's for dinner, but it's already 10:00 PM.  David and I opt to stay in and chat and read.

Monday, March 19th - Goiana

We sleep relatively well. The rain yesterday cooled things off a bit and we opened the window to our room. Hot water from showers comes from a small on demand heater at the shower head.

Brazilian coffee is very strong and usually served in tiny cups with milk. A staple here is pangea, bread made with cheese inside. Very tasty. Brazilians eat lots of beef and meat of all kinds. Rice and beans are also included at nearly every meal.

It is still raining gently this morning as we take our second malaria pill. Earl has told us there are few mosquitoes on the boat. He said to take the pills, but that the risk of exposure was not great. There has been an outbreak of yellow fever in a nearby state.

The Vincents are not at breakfast by 8, probably they were up late at the Haubner's last night. They finally appear about 9:30. They had a late night and slept in. We agreed to walk to the park and mall together. We walk leisurely around the park, noticing the town and the lake with swan boats.

Surveying the town

Still using a horse and buggy

 Shona asks locals about the art shop mentioned in Fodor’s, but it apparently is no longer there. As we round the bend to the mall, Tanner slips on the grassy embankment and gets muddy. His folks take him to the hotel to shower and change. We keep the older boys and cruise the mall, which is pretty modern with lots of shops but no postcards. The kids check out the toy store and David looks for sunglasses.

We find the food court, where we plan to meet. Having explored the mall, we buy popcorn and go outside in a pretty little adjacent park. The trees have signs naming them and lots of other signs saying don't pee on the grass. Apparently that's very common here and in all of Brazil. Soon we spot Mike Shona and Tanner returning from the hotel. The boys race to meet them at the mall entrance.

We stop at the small grocery store and meet at the food court. David hits McDonald's and I do Asian food.

Convenience store

Who should appear but the Haubner's and Cleaveland's. We chat and they head out for a restaurant for lunch. We make plans for pool time and get picked up at 8 for dinner. I read photos to find out about a rock shop. There's one at a nature craft center. We try to call Earl but the phone card doesn't work and the hotel desk doesn't get through either. We give up and then voilà in walks Lynn who says Earl is outside in the car on the street. I take my Fodor’s guide out to him, and he offers to take us to the shop. Yippee.

We drive through town with Earl as our tour guide. He can't find the shop and stops to ask directions with no help. He drives around a bit more in the area and finds a native arts shop. We stop, go in and find they have stones, but all are carved into figures with no natural agate. I spy masks and Earl negotiates for us, finally buying 2 for $40 US. What treasures! One has a robe attached, made of tree bark like their clothing. What a find. We thank Earl profusely and head back to the hotel. 

Shop with masks

A couple sees us at the pool with the masks and sees we are tourists. They share some treats from Manaus. Chocolate covered nuts and chocolate covered fruit- great stuff. This couple is here from Manaus for him to have eye surgery.

David and I read outside by the pool until it's too dark to see. Inside we begin to repack our bags to try to move into smaller baggage for the boat. At 8:00, they pick us up to go eat at the churrascaria. We make it into two cars. On the way I teach Trevor how to whistle holding his hands together. I also show him how to whistle with his fingers in his mouth. He's a quick study and willing to keep trying. We arrive and unload, walking into an open front restaurant. There's a great salad bar and of course all the meat you can eat. A variety of desserts is available too, plus chilled sliced pineapple. We head back to the hotel about 10 shower and get to bed.

Tuesday, March 20^th  -  Goiana to Manaus 

Dogs barking in the night woke us up now and then. I turned on the air conditioner and shut the windows, both to keep out the noise. We got up at 6:00 to finish packing for a 7:15 AM departure. We tried to pay with traveler’s checks and that won't work so David jogs back to the shopping center looking for a money machine. The first one doesn't work, but praise God! The second one does!

I am finishing packing and feeling a bit panicky about money. I take the two bigger luggage bags outside and organize the rest on the bed. David returns in about 40 minutes with the cash. I pay our bill which is 237R$ - only $110 US for three nights! Wow, cheap lodging.

We eat breakfast and the rides arrive. We are quite a sight loading up and finally call a taxi for me and David and Tyler. Tyler has learned to whistle some and is still practicing. His mom says I've created a monster!

We get to the airport, say goodbye to Ruth Anne, and get in line. There are ten of us and lots of luggage because there are boxes of vitamins and supplies for the boat. The line moves slowly but finally Earl is at the head of the line. He checks us in and gets the luggage checked, then we head to the waiting area at the gate. The men bring a cup of coffee and David brings me a chocolate mint. Two flights are called before us but finally it's our turn to board.

It has started raining. We take off flying over fields of produce and cattle. We see a few towns and the 30-minute flight extends because of weather. We can't land at Manaus yet, so go into a holding pattern. Finally, we are cleared to land.

We deplane and grab several luggage carts to collect everything again. The boys are in the middle of it. We take turns watching each other's stuff to use the restroom. When we get outside a small tour bus awaits. Whew! There's lots of room for people and baggage. Lynn and Earl drive in a car while the rest of us get on the bus.

There is a little city tour introduction to Manaus from Vienna who has worked as a tour guide. We don't have much time, and we will be back in Manaus at the end of our trip.

 We pass the Opera House and drive near the harbor to the hotel, stopping traffic in the street while we unload extra bags and take on more supplies and two more folks, the dentist Wayne and his wife Nancy. When we are finally all on the bus, we drive a short distance to where the boat is docked. We are all excited to get sight of it. We unload the bus while some local folks gather hoping to earn a bit of money carrying our bags down to the boat. They succeed.

The medical mission boat

Lynn and David on the boat

We cross the water to the boat on a long plank, “walking the gang plank,” and head downstairs to get cabin assignments. Things are very close, but actually better than I had expected. We each have a small bunk bed. We leave our things in the cabin and spend the next few hours on deck under the roof, chatting and exploring the dock with our eyes. Dark clouds roll in and it rains hard, but only briefly. David buys sunglasses from a man on the shore for 5R$.

David looks at boat's engine

We spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the boat while staff are trying to get our papers to leave. I called Tammi and Mom but just left messages both places! Boo! I was hoping to hear their voices.

Finally, we shove off, somehow having the paperwork we need. We have a group meeting for instructions and prayer for the journey. We wander around the boat looking at the changing shoreline. We are called for dinner and gather for prayer. There is rice, spaghetti, fried chicken, and a mixture of chopped vegetables with lime. It's tasty, but not gourmet. We bring bottled water for drinking and cooking on the journey.

Cook Joiya with rice

Cook #2 at sink.

Self-serve buffet

Bottled water for the trip

As dusk approaches, we sit on deck watching as our boat navigates the river, passing other boats and watching some lights along the shore. The breeze is comfortable, cool enough to call for a long sleeve shirt. We chat and watch. David is testing the idea of sleeping in a hammock on deck and finally decides to do so.

Other boats on river

Lynn and Julie in the hammocks

David in hammock where he sleeps

I go below, change into PJ's, climb into the "throne" toilet which is literally elevated from the floor by steps. The beds are comfortable and there is one large air conditioner for our below main deck level. We all leave our doors open. A generator powers lights in each room. In the night, we pass a barge which creates a big wake, rocking our boat and the cabin doors bang. We are located below the main deck near the noisy, smelly engine.

Wednesday, March 21st - On the boat. From Manaus past Itaquatiara, entering the Jatapu River and upstream to Uatuma River and Sao Sebastiao

I awaken as it gets light at about 5:00 AM, but doze a bit before I get up at six. I dress to go topside. David slept well in the hammock though he was a bit cool. He put on a second shirt. We're moving along at a fast pace. Earl brings out the maps and shows us the state of Amazonia. He shows us the Amazon River, the smaller Jatapu River we are now traversing, the city of Manaus where we embarked, and the direction we are headed. The riverbanks are thick with trees on both sides. We spot an occasional house or chapel. We pull in and tie up for an oil check on the engine. The boat edges into shore, a man steps in the water to tie a rope to a tree root. They shut down the engine and we wait, looking at a small farm with a cow, two dogs, and a garden.

Soon we are off again, seeing a herd of water buffalo, part of a wild  population of as many as 30,000 animals. They were imported for meat, but the people would not accept the darker colored meat, so became unmarketable. We see scattered homes along the shore and occasional small villages. We take lots of photos. 

When invited to help count vitamins downstairs, we all head to the dining area where we have boxes of vitamins brought by the Cleavelands. We count out 30 and tie them in a small plastic bag. The doctor on board, a volunteer from Rio, and a nurse try to organize the drug inventory. The doctor has a large supply of assorted samples of meds and has us sort like packages together, then place in bags of similar medicines, such as the antibiotics, together. We work all morning.

Sorting and counting medicines

Shona and Julie with cooks and cleaning lady

The women working on this boat clean constantly scrubbing floors on hands and knees, keeping the washer running. There is a paid cook. For breakfast they serve ham and cheese sandwiches with papaya and hot chocolate - all very good. Lunch is beef stew, the same vegetable salad and cooked spaghetti with leftover chicken from last night. Today Earl and the nurse, Beñta, have birthdays, so at devotion time we sing happy birthday. The cook

's first effort at a cake fails, and we rack our brains for a memorized recipe. But that fails and she uses the same recipe successfully the second time.

Devotion time

Boat docked at village

Path to boat

David leaving boat

We watch the town of Sao Sebastiao come into sight and see freshwater dolphins playing along the way. We dock and survey the wharf area, watching folks load newly crafted doors. We prepare for a walk through this town of 5000 people. The streets are wide, made of dirt and occasionally have a parkway-type divider with trees. The houses are small, mostly weathered wood frame. There is a post office, several stores, a tire shop, and at least two woodworking factories. We take lots of photos as we pass through town and we're quite curiosity to the townspeople, who watch this wandering group of a dozen white people with a couple of Brazilians.

Shoreline with ramp

Locals loading doors

David and Lynn walking through town

House with laundry hanging to dry

Chickens cooling in the shade

Girl with bike

Walking through town

Village street

We meander through the town, Lynn chatting with people until we come to the pastor's new house. The mission paid 1500$R for the lot, and about $12,000 US for the house. It has a central room as kitchen, dining, and living room. It was a furnished with a three-piece set of stuffed furniture. Outside, attached to the back of the house is a toilet and water closet. It's the only one in town we think, and the neighbors turned out to see it when it was installed. Outside the toilet area, on an adjacent wall and with a roof, are two wash basins and toothbrushes in a holder. It's quite the modern setup. There are a large master bedroom and a smaller room for each child, a boy and a girl. The pastor is very proud of the house. They have been in it 20 days. He's here to start a church. Having come from a favela in Manaus, he sees this home as a palace.

The mission has also purchased a boat for him, and we walk to it after leaving his house. The pastor's wife served frozen coconut milk as a treat for the visitors. They have a freezer!

We boarded the small boat, which has a roof and a new single-stroke engine. The boat cruises out to the river and down to the confluence. We see dolphins and other boats. When we return to the big boat, the skillful driver cuts the engine and we coast right alongside the big boat.

We scramble out and set to work immediately at the clinic on board. Most patients who come are moms with young children. The doctor has taught them to bathe the kids before coming on the boat. The kids are weighed and measured and the circumference of their heads measured. The moms are first weighed, then they hold the child for the combined weight. Moms also have their blood pressure taken, which I sign up to do. The doctor does exams and gives moms literature and children's vitamins. The kids get candy. It's an impressive operation with David getting people on and off the boat and Lynn calling each one in turn. The people are patient, even though it's hot and the line is long. The doctor sees 74 patients in about 3 hours.

Dr. Joao and nurse Benta

Bonnie with stethoscope and fans

Bonnie taking blood pressure

Mom bringing toddler up the gangplank

Moms bathing kids in the river

David boarding boat

We are hot, tired and sweaty. Church is at 7, but David and I decide not to go. We offer to keep the boys, and at first that's the plan, but later Shona decides to stay so she can get the kids to bed earlier. I borrow a Bible to look for Scripture for Friday morning when it's our turn to lead the devotional. I look through several times, finally setting on Psalm 100 or Romans 12.

David comes to talk about how he's feeling on this leg of the journey. The compassion of these Christians for each other and the love for the people they serve is awesome and challenges us to do more. I take some drinking water and dampen the corner of my towel for a sponge bath. (I can't bring myself to shower since the water there is from the river.) It feels refreshing after the heat of the day, and I change into my PJ's. I'm physically tired and lie down to rest, and I'm drowsy when the folks return from the church service. They are having soup and birthday cake. Everyone is tired and settles into bed fairly quickly. We will stay docked tonight to head out about 5:00 AM.

Thursday, March 22 - On the boat.

David slept on the deck again, with a warmer evening as we weren't in motion. He said he woke up only when they started the engine to head out. I slept well too, starting on the top bunk but moving later to the lower cooler one. I too am awakened by getting underway. I get up and take a Marezine. I'm trying to conserve them to be sure I have enough. I lie back down to allow it to take effect. Mostly travel is so smooth I'm tempted not to take it at all, but am afraid of getting sick, so only risked not taking one while docked last night. I dress in the “Christ for Life and Health” T-shirt we each received yesterday. What a great gift. We're pleased to be included as a member of this Christ-serving team, and I mentioned that to Earl, who gives me a hug.

We have breakfast and in a couple of hours we pull into Saint Helens. We have devotions, always a moving experience. Tears run down my cheeks as we sing in English and Portuguese the Old Rugged Cross and other familiar hymns. Mike leads the devotion about stepping out of your zone on faith into new work. It fits right in with what David and I are feeling. People come to line up before we are ready, and are asked to return later. We all go ashore for group photos in our project T-shirts. We sing “God is So Good” for the video shot.

List of Crewmembers: Captain - Rio Mundo; Dentist Pract. - Tony; Cook – Joíya; Cleaning lady - Selena; Pastor Jeraldo; Church Youth Pastor – Denisé; Pastor at Sao Sebastiao – Elisen

Doctor Jóao, Nurse Beñta,  Dentist Wayne and wife Nancy Jardiner.

Romans 10:20, Quote from Tia Mar, Last few verses

Romans 10: 11-15; Matthew 28:18-20

Pagie Sieir means you can leave

After devotions, we get assignments for today's tasks. Mike and his sons and Denisé went to the school for devotions and interaction with the kids. Others have generally the same assignments as yesterday. I'm handed a blood pressure cuff and stethoscope and set up my station better than yesterday. When we are ready the boat horn sounds and Earl shouts out. Folks start coming. The first mom holds a baby with a crocheted hat and a toddler boy who is crying in fear and uncooperative to weighing and measuring. Mom consoles him. And so, the clinic begins at 9:30 AM.

Families waiting to board

Baby with crocheted hat

Julie, Lynn and mom with baby

Kids in dugouts

Kids washing up

Kids washing up

Kids at clinic

There are patients with leprosy and malaria. There's a slow but steady stream of patients all morning. I read between taking vitals, and finally at 12:30 they call a halt for lunch. We watch some schoolchildren swimming like fish in the river. A girl catches a fish with her bare hands. The kids handle the dugout canoes and paddles like pros.

The dentist finishes with a patient and then we gather for a lunch of fried fish, fried bananas, slaw, sliced cucumbers, leftover rice and farinha. The farinha is a little like hard balls, very hard but finally chewable. It's made from manioc root. Everyone eats and we clean up, taking a rest until 2:00. I climb up the hill to wander through the village taking photos and nodding to folks. The village is much smaller and poorer than the one we were at yesterday. There are thatched huts and a block building for the school.

Thatched houses

Mom doing laundry in river

Chopping wood

Julie and Shona and I joke about our physical appearances, our hair frizzy from the humidity and our bodies dripping with sweat.

We see our first patient of the afternoon at 2:30. It rained hard over lunch and is even more humid now, if that's possible. The village reminds me of a movie set with a few updated touches like a satellite dish at the school and a power line running through town.

Folks stop coming around 4. We close up shop and scatter around the boat to rest, read, and chat. The two older boys go off with one of the staff to fish, heading out in a small motorized boat. They returned in an hour, empty-handed but having had a good time.

There was a boy who would not come on the boat today because he had no shirt. The nurse on board was distressed for him. Another boy loaned him his shirt so he could come see the doctor. Another child had a large piece of wood removed from his leg. It had been there long enough that the muscle had started to close over it. The doctor, a plastic surgeon, used a local anesthetic and opened the leg, took out the wood and stitched it up.

People coming to the boat are invited to attend a worship service tonight at 7. We are sitting waiting to go to the service when Shona tells everyone that one woman is teaching a child to brush her teeth. As I go downstairs to get my camera, I slip on the next-to-last step and would have fallen to the floor except the dentist, Wayne, was standing there waiting to come up and caught me. He is my hero of the day.

We scramble up the muddy bank to hold the service. The town has a small generator and the crew gives them fuel to run it so we can have light for our service. Mostly children are there at first while parents watching the soaps, “telenovelas.” The soaps are so popular here that even soccer is broadcast late to accommodate them. A total of 52 people come for our service.

We sing choruses and three men speak of the project, “Health and Christ”. After the service we again use flashlights to get down to the bank and to the boat. Our meal is soup and bread with leftover birthday cake. We get ready for bed. Bathrooms are at a premium, with only three for the 19 of us. Clothes are hanging on lines topside so it's crowded for the hammocks. David tries to sleep inside but finds it noisy and hot, so goes back outside for the night. The G's are up late showering and have the light on which makes it difficult to go to sleep. Earlier, Earl went over the map with us to show us where we are and where we are going.

The Amazon is the world's second-longest river. The Nile is the first. The closer we get to the ocean, the wider the Amazon becomes, and we cannot even see across it. Without the opposite shoreline, it looks like a lake or ocean! When we travel at night, the captain uses a huge searchlight, constantly scanning back and forth across the river, looking for logs or other debris which could damage the ship. This light also often lets us see the reflection of two eyes in the water-Black Caimans-a crocodile-like reptile.

Boat leaving the village

We travel in the night and the plan is to stop at Sao Sebastiao, but when we get there it looks like it will rain. The river is already wide here and the captain thinks the wind will make the water choppy making the boat rock. He goes on to Saint John the Baptist, our destination for Friday. We dock at about midnight.

Friday, March 23rd - On the boat at Saint John the Baptist

The day dawns gray and looks like it might continue raining all day. We have our usual morning routine and breakfast. I pray for the food, so I get to go first for the meal. David has been appointed to bring the devotion. This morning he's been anxious about it. We borrowed Julie's Bible and David consults with Lynn for scripture references for the missionaries. David wants to combine the Great Commission with an acknowledgement of the contributions of the crew. The text of the devotion follows:

Look at your feet!

How beautiful are the feet of those who bring good news. Isaiah 52: 7. Isaiah proclaims, “How beautiful on the mountains are the feet of those who bring good news, who proclaim peace, who bring good tidings, who proclaim salvation, who say to Zion your God reigns.” Isaiah was talking about your feet, the feet of missionaries who bring the good news. Romans 10: 11-15. How beautiful indeed! In our devotion this morning, I want to spend time thinking about ourselves. Pastor Lynn preached, “Who is Jesus? How do we find out about him?” Mike Vincent asked us to risk, to step out of our comfort zone, to commit, to be faithful, to get to know yourself and your personal relationship to Jesus. Risk and be bold.

My fellow Christians, I have been challenged like never before on this trip to think about this. Christians are to love one another. While it is impossible to unconditionally love everyone, it is possible for God to unconditionally love everyone, and we are to love each other, every culture, race, and religion through God's unconditional all-encompassing love. That's not all. Christians are called to evangelize. The Great Commission in Matthew 28: 18 through 20

Our observations are these. Captain Rio Mundo, with four hours of sleep in the first 24 hours of the trip, got us here safely because he serves the Lord. Pastor Geraldo Francisco Elisen and my pastor, Pastor Lynn not only demonstrate the love of the Lord, but witness with expressions of love, unconditionally given through God's magnificent grace. Joya feeds the multitude fish. No, she feeds wonderful food to a few to nourish bodies who save souls.

Doctors Wayne and Jóao, Beñta, and Nancy, your service to the people of Brazil is obviously so appreciated. You've answered the call and expressed your love. Denisé and Selena quietly do their tasks serve others and keep us comfortable.

All of you, look at your feet. They carry you to minister to Jesus.

David's joke about feeding the multitude brings smiles and chuckles. Our message is well received.

Back at work now, Earl asks us to count more vitamins so David and I count out four big bottles worth, bagging them up and putting them in the doctor's office. A little boy is brought on the boat who was bitten on the cheek by a dog several weeks ago. The doctor on the boat has seen to his aftercare. The boy today is brought on by Denisé the children's worker. She gives him a bath and a new set of clothes and a pair of sandals. He is a bit frightened and cries, but Shona comforts him. We all take photos.

Morning chores and cleaning commence. The cook is already working on lunch, which is the big meal of the day. Brazilians usually have bread and coffee for breakfast, but we have larger meals at the hotels and on the boat.

Potato – batata

Carrot – cenoura

Since it is raining, few people are coming to the clinic. I put on my raincoat and Mike takes me and David on a tour of Saint John the Baptist. Mainly we watch the manioc production process and take photos. The people are friendly and liked to watch us as we watch them. They have land and water, but don't work the soil. Back on the boat, Beñta lends me her Portuguese English Dictionary to read. We put out to mid river to take in water.

About noon, there is a call for lunch made of fried chicken, rice, spaghetti, fried bananas, vegetable salad. Tasty.

Back on shore, the rain has stopped. The women on the boat hang out the laundry and began work for dinner. People began to arrive at the boat. Two little girls, sisters barely 10 months apart, are bathed and given new clothes including sandals. We see a few folks today. It's kind of slow. A couple of the crew asked me to take their blood pressure. I showed Tanner how to hear his heart with the stethoscope. I passed time reading one of the boy's study bibles. The girls from the boat want to learn to take blood pressure, so we practice that. Then we have English school. They use a Portuguese English Dictionary and have me help with pronunciation. They have the English words to a chorus “Lord, I Lift Your Name On High”. We practice it over and over so they can get the English words correctly. It's relaxed and fun.

We have not been as busy today, so there has been a lot of downtime and it's getting a bit boring. Ruth Anne is right - don't come unless you have a job to do. I have read all the books we brought plus the one loaned to us by the Scates. David is looking for reading material too and loathe to start The Path because I've told him it turns into a scripture lesson. But he's desperate so starts it anyway. The dentist and his wife have had constant patients because if they don't have townspeople they work on the crew. David and I opt out of church service. He reads topside, but it's too buggy for me. I head down to the bedroom level, where Shona and her two youngest are hanging out. We chat a while until folks return for dinner.

We decide the boat should head out to our final stop, Uracaru, to eat enroute so as to avoid the bugs. Dinner is special because we are having chicken stroganoff over rice with slaw and veggie salad. We pass around a sheet for folks to sign their names, addresses, and e-mail. We are all aware that it about time for us to leave the boat.

I teach Tyler and Travis ONG. ONG is a coded language our family invented. You spell the word. Vowels are pronounced as the letter, but each consonant is followed by ONG.  For example. boat would become BONG O A TONG, and American would be A MONG E RONG I CONG A NONG. TONG YONG LONG E RONG and TONG RONG A VONG I SONG catch on fast.

About 10, I head for bed.

 

March 24. Urucaru, Jato (Public transportation), Manaus

We docked in Urucaru last night. We have spent much time tied up to the docks along the way, so I have not had to take Marezine. God is answering prayer because if I had to take it around the clock, like on the Alaskan cruise, I would not have had enough.

We awaken to rain and ease into the morning. We begin to gather our things and pack up, stopping for breakfast, but no group devotions today. Earl takes us on a tour of the town, to see the small church and the pastor's home here. The house is very nice. They have monkeys and birds in cages as pets. They have a dog tied up who barks at us. There are chickens and ducks and a turtle. This couple has recently adopted a baby. They have a paper signed by the mom and are working on getting a government document.

Pet monkey

Parakeets

Another Christian Church is here and has been for 40 years but has only 7 attendees. Earl hopes to buy this building instead of building his own larger one for the work here.

Dogs abound, with no animal control and no attempt to limit reproduction. We visit the open marketplace where they sell fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, and manioc in two forms.

Shop in Urucaru

Fish shop in Urucaru

We buy tickets for the Jato (like a ferry) from a man who boards our boat. They have been reserved for us. We form a human assembly line to get the luggage from the bedroom level topside, off the boat, across the river front, and to the boarding dock. There are hugs and kisses, farewells and God-speeds. We cross another boat's deck to reach the Jato and load luggage and people on board.

Saying goodby

Final group photo

Saying thanks and goodby

Waiting for the Jato

The remaining seats are at the rear near the engine. It is too noisy to talk. Shona gets some cotton from the crew and we all use it as earplugs. We settle in for a 7-hour ride. 

The loaded Jato

Lynn is already asleep

Bonnie and David

Folks buy soft drinks and David has a beer. The noise is deafening. We watch the riverbank now for a while and one by one we all drift off to sleep. After a good nap, we wake for lunch - rice, beans, farinha, and chicken with bell peppers. I don't eat the chicken. The rest is tasty. There is a TV on with Portuguese subtitles but no way we can hear it and we don't read Portuguese so, oh well. The closer we get to Manaus, the dirtier I feel. I can't wait for that hot shower!

We walk up and down the boat, sit a while, stand on the back deck, just keep passing time. We see lots of villages along the way. It seems the school is always the most modern building. We pass freight on the river. One huge barge is loaded with 18-wheelers of cargo and a semi-truck load of new cars. I notice there is microwave popcorn available and order two bags for us all to share. Nearly everyone has some. Tanner and I wind up eating most of it. Tanner has his mom buy another bag just for him. I've had enough.

I see smokestacks ahead. Maybe it is the plywood city? One of the staff tells me in Portuguese that we are nearing the encounter of the waters and soon we see it, but I doubt my photo will show it well. (We didn’t find any postcards of the Amazon, either.) We are pulling into the dock on the dot of 5:00 PM- this boat is on time! We unload luggage and people climb the steep stairs to the top of the shore and load into taxis. We are not far from the hotel, but I'm not sure where it is exactly and there is luggage to carry, so we hire two taxis to the hotel. Our reservations are good, and they even find the luggage we checked here before the boat trip, so all is well. Then it's off to the shower and that warm wonderful water to bathe and wash my hair and get to feeling human again!

We dress leisurely and Lynn knocks on the door, ready to go out to eat. Shona asks at the front desk and learns there are two good restaurants nearby. One is Italian and the other is a churrascaria, or steakhouse. Lynn and Julie are celebrating their 40th anniversary so we ask them to choose. They pick Italian. Lynn has given Julie ruby earrings, and she proudly shows them off. We order a wide variety of Italian pastas and pizza, and the portions are so large each of us eats only about half. Shona asks for a box for leftovers for us to give to a hungry person on the street. We tried to pay for the meal for Lynn and Julie’s present, but Lynn insists it's his turn. We give them the greeting card we have carried from the US.

We decide to walk in the park to look for someone to take the food. We walk under a huge tree full of parakeets and discover they are pooping. Several of us get hit with this stuff -yuck! David offers me his hanky. The locals laugh at us. They are necking in the park. Shona tells us about PDAs, or public displays of affection. We walk a couple of blocks more and try to give the food to a man on the street. He takes one portion but says he can't eat it all. Shona gives the rest to women sweeping the streets. We go in and get ready for bed. The AC is either on or off, nothing in between, so it's alternately hot and cold but we sleep well.

Sunday, March 25th, Manaus

We wake up before the 7:00 AM call, in fact, David was up at 4:00, then comes   back to bed. I get up and dress and begin packing. David has not realized that we need to check out right away, so is hurrying at the last minute. We get the beer from the fridge and I pick up his sunglasses on the way out. We take our bags down the stairs. David checks out with his visa card, then we have breakfast. As usual, yogurt and fruit hot bread and tea for me. David has scrambled eggs.

We wait for our tour to arrive. It's due at 8 and by 8:20 Shona is arranging for another tour, but our guy shows up. He renegotiates the rate and Shona tries to deal with him, but finally says we have no choice, so we pay 150 R$ for the driver and van and 80 R$ for Lorenzo. Oh well. We go first to the market where the kids have been excited to go. Many foods are being processed: fruits, meat and fish. There are many Amazonian crafts and David and I buy another mask. We also get some T-shirts. There's lots of other stuff, but we resist and just pick up a few postcards. Julie buys things for her grandkids here and in the US.

Municipal Market Manaus

Shopping at the market

Cutting fish

Back in the van, we drive to the floating dock made in Liverpool, and floated here to install. The docks float on huge metal drums and therefore stay at water level.

Then we go to the Opera House, closed on Sunday but we see the outside and the neoclassical architecture. There is a nearby church meant to have matching steeples. The stone was obtained in Italy and the stone for one steeple was in a boat that sank, so there is only 1 steeple on the church. We see a handcrafted stone with a large wooden snake carved on the roof. It has started to rain and our plan to go to the research on Brazil institute is called off because the tour would be outside. We drive to the Museum of Natural history which has a cool aquarium, but it is closed, so our tour day is self destructing. We decide to go to lunch again at an indoor place a churrascaria steakhouse. The food is only so- so. When the bill comes it is much too high. Shona has the language and talks to them. They refigure and reduce it but it is still too high. Shona figures that we are paying for lunch for the guide his wife and a driver. We never agreed to that. We head on to the airport, unload and get in the check in line. Shona settles up with Lorenzo and asks him for money back for the lunches. Is not happy, but she is good to work it out with him.

Palace of Justice

Amazon Theater

Amazon Theater

Amazon Theater-David taking photos

We wait in line while David searches out a working money machine. He finally finds one on his third try. We chat while working our way up to the front of the line. We pay our airport tax and get checked in, then head to the gate. Mike and Shona get stopped at X-ray because they have a blow gun with darts. The darts would be OK in the suitcase, but not on the plane, so she goes to mail them to their house. Mike is angry and grumbling, says the darts will probably arrive broken, which upsets Tyler and he weeps. Mike apologizes and says he was just being mean. Tyler quickly collects himself. We say our thank you's and goodbyes and head to our own gate. Their plane was scheduled to leave after us, but they started boarding before us and actually left before we did. Mike and Shona will be home tonight, Lynn and Julie the next morning, and us on Tuesday. We finally board and are told there was a problem with communication equipment which had to be fixed.

It's a long flight, 1500 miles, with a stop in Brasilia, the capital. We are asked to stay on the plane at the stop. David wants to get off but I have heard the announcement and check with the stewardess at his request. When we take off again, the overhead compartment comes open and our mask falls out I hope it isn't damaged.

I tune in the classical music and hear the Zampa Overture, a favorite from high school. Finally, we arrive in Rio about 9. We agree there is no way we could have made the international connection tonight. We feel like seasoned travelers in Rio now and get a cab for the hotel knowing what it should cost and where we are going.

The hotel is expecting this, and we check in and get our room. David makes a run for water and a cigarette. I miss his backpack and hope he has it. He does!

We decide to go to the hippie fair for final souvenirs. David gets agate for his dad and we buy 3 wooden boxes with stones in the lids. We stop at Haagen Dahs for ice cream, then return to our very warm hotel room at midnight. The AC is on but not doing much. We decide to open the window for ventilation and climb into bed.

Monday, March 26th Rio and heading home to AZ

We wake up hot about 6:00 AM, laze around a bit, and get to breakfast by 7. We read Fodor’s to see what we've missed, and decide to spend the day at the beach. We pack up after David negotiates for us to keep our room until 6:00 PM. It's a great deal! We get towels and an umbrella, stop by the bookstore for a couple of English novels, and stake out a claim on Copacabana. David likes the water. He says it's cleaner and warmer than last week, although air pollution today is awful. You can barely see the other end of Copacabana beach.

We settle in with our books and keep saying no to the vendors walking by. I notice a beach cover up with the pattern of the sidewalk on it and get two of them. The man who manages the beach chairs is Salvador. He puts the handle of our backpack over the umbrella pole to keep it safe. We spend the day at the beach until about 3:00. I move my chair often to keep it in the shadow and read “Emma”. David is in and out of the water. He talks with a young woman from Argentina. I chat with a woman from Wisconsin. A beach vendor walking barefoot in the sand stabs his foot on a stick in the sand. It's bleeding. He washes it and the woman from Wisconsin offers him a Band-Aid. He puts it on and trudges on down the beach. The woman from Wisconsin buys 5 bikinis on the beach as gifts for folks at home. She paid $10 each.

David and I count funds and decide to head back to the hotel for a shower. When we get there, the AC is not working and the room is stifling hot. We shower and pack to go out to eat. On the way out we report the broken AC.

We head toward Ipanema beach and stop at the first restaurant we find. It is partially open air, with a roof. We are well served here. David has a steak and fries. I ordered a tropical salad with tuna. It's terrific! We have banana pizza for dessert. It's a special, made with cinnamon, and taste good. David settles the bill, we take a photo of the restaurant and the server, and head back.

On the street, a man approaches David to ask for help. He is older than we are, neatly dressed, with bad teeth. He says he is from Trinidad and wants to find work to earn 11 R$ (5.50 USD) to pay his airport tax. He says he did not know about the tax, has no funds to pay, and is stuck here. His luggage is waiting at the airport. He talks of trying to get help at the British embassy, and even though he served in the British forces, he gets “treated like an animal.” He is angry at Brazil and says he considered busting up the place at the airport but knows that would only land him in jail.

David and I looked at each other period if this guy is a con man, he is good. We both find him credible. David walks back to the restaurant to get change and gives the man 20R$. Hopefully this was our good deed for the day.

Back at the hotel, the AC is working. We gather our things and check out, telling the clerk we have been pleased with the service. Our taxi awaits. The young driver has a few English words, and we share with him words and phrases we have learned in Portuguese. We are at the airport early and get checked in without waiting. David asks about an upgrade and the clerk calls her supervisor to ask. He checks things over and says an upgrade would cost $1000 each. David says that's too expensive!

The man offers for us to wait in the VIP lounge, so it was worth asking. The lounge is small but has leather chairs and a clean toilet and free drinks and snacks. I ask about a place to change Brazilian money into US. It's not an option, but a man in the lounge offers $65 for my 149 R$. He makes out great to my loss, but at least I have $65. We move to the gate and finally board, only to learn we will be delayed due to the weather in Sao Paulo. We take off about an hour late, land in Sao Paulo, and I stake a claim to seats in row 10, hoping for some sleeping space. We are served orange juice while we wait, and it makes David sick. After three beers at dinner in the Scotch in the VIP lounge, he's nauseous and spends much of the night up in the toilet. I sleep relatively well in three seats, waking up only to turn over, use the toilet and get a drink.

By morning, David is a little better and tries a Coke to see how it sits. We get into Atlanta and have no problem with immigration or customs, but we have missed our connecting flights and have to rebook for the 10:50 flight to Phoenix. We take the airport tram to concourse B and wait. I call our Arizona neighbor, Wanda, to inform her of our delay. We finally board our flight and head for home, thankful for such a wonderful experience and opportunity for Christian service.