2017 - Bonnie's Journey to Galapagos

 Galapagos Adventure July 2017

We have been planning this trip for over a year, inviting our family to join us and working with their schedules, we selected July 17 through 25, 2017. Family includes daughter Tammi, granddaughter Jami and her husband Brandon and their two girls, Madison, age 8 and Emma, age 7. Emma loves penguins and that is one reason we chose Galapagos. Despite being on the equator, there are some colder ocean currents that allow penguins to live here. Ecuador is the Spanish word for the equator. Maybe that is intuitive to you, but I had to actually read that somewhere before the light dawned on me.

Galapagos is the Spanish word for saddle, which was applied to the saddle-shaped shell of the huge tortoises which the Spaniards actually rode. The name stuck and became the term for the area. Also of interest is that Ecuador uses US currency, so we do not have to make currency exchange. Cost of this trip $41,321.

Ecuador Introduction

A diminutive country that boasts a wonderfully diverse array of sights, Ecuador is a pocket-sized version of all that is synonymous with Latin America. It has high Andes Mountains, a landscape dotted with smoking volcanoes, well-preserved colonial towns, vibrant and colorful indigenous markets, and vast tracts of sultry Amazon rainforests. But Ecuador has one unique feature all its own: the magnificent Galapagos Islands. Famous for their wide variety of fearless wildlife and as the inspiration for Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution, a cruise around these fascinating islands is one of the world’s great travel experiences.

Today the 13 major islands and the dozens of smaller ones are a living laboratory where animals have no fear of man. The islands belong to Ecuador, which has preserved them in the early 1970s by creating the Galapagos National Park and Galapagos Marine Reserve. The Darwin Research Center is also located on the islands. Some areas of the islands are inhabited with small towns and farms, but most of the land mass is protected space, requiring visitors to be escorted by a naturalist who has been trained for the area. Visitors must walk on carefully marked trails, experiencing being very close to the wildlife in its natural habitat. Be careful not to step on a nesting booby or a sunbathing sea lion or iguana.

Day 1 Monday, July 17: Travel Day

This is to be a very long travel day, especially for the folks from Wyoming who have three flights. They left Gillette at 6 AM and arrived Denver 7:33. There was a 5-hour layover, with the flight to Houston departing at 12:50 and arriving 16:10 Houston time. The international flight to Quito, Ecuador left at 17:35, arriving 22:55. David and I had a bit shorter day, leaving Phoenix at 10:05 AM, arriving Houston at 14:41, where we connected with the Wyoming folks with hugs all around and photos too. We had something to eat before boarding.

The international flight served a meal and we tried to sleep, but we were all tired when we arrived about 11 PM, clearing immigration and customs without difficulty. Quito has a new very modern airport which has won awards. We found sparkling clean toilets and even toilet paper! We were very pleased to see our local guide holding a sign for “Wilson Family” as we were leaving the airport. He phoned the driver to come for us, led us to the curb and helped us load our bags. The guide introduced himself as Fabiano, and told us to “buckle up, it’s the law.”

It is about a 45-minute ride from the airport to our hotel, La Casona de la Ronda, in Quito, so it was well after midnight when we arrived. The security guard opened the door and the bellman helped us move our bags from the van to the lobby. The hotel is in the old town section of Quito. As we were arriving after midnight, the streets were deserted and the neighborhood was definitely dodgy. Despite the neighborhood, the hotel was lovely. The interior of the hotel was circa 1930s with classical Spanish style rooms of that era and Spanish-Colonial Architecture. 

Staff were expecting us and checked us in while we looked at the three rooms reserved for us. Brandon chose the one with a double and twin beds for the girls. Tammi had a room to herself and David and I had a large room with a king bed. This a beautiful boutique hotel. It is an older building, remodeled and decorated with lots of plants and paintings of flowers on the walls and over the doors.

We were too tired to explore much as we were all ready to crash. The guide said goodnight and jokingly told us he would be back at 7:30 in the morning, then grinned and said it would be at 10 for our city tour. Weary bodies climbed the stairs as there was no elevator. The beds were comfortable, the bathrooms modern and well appointed. There was a lovely fruit plate in our room with a note from our travel agent wishing us a pleasant trip. We all slept well.

Day 2, Tuesday, July 18: Quito

We gathered in the pleasant downstairs breakfast room of the hotel for a generous buffet with lots of choices and friendly wait staff. After breakfast, we collected our day packs and cameras and met our guide at the front door as promised at 10:00. We climbed into the van and buckled up. Fabiano reminded us that Quito is at elevation 9000 feet, so we should take it easy today as we acclimate. We certainly do not want to get altitude sickness.

Our first stop is for a walking tour of Quito Old Town, A UNESCO World Heritage site. Quito is the capitol of modern Ecuador, and it was once the main political and ceremonial center for the northern reaches of the Inca Empire. Its location—a fertile valley surrounded by picturesque mountains—combined with a pleasant climate, meant that once the Spanish had defeated the Incas, they founded the present-day city on the same site. Quito reminded David and me of La Paz, Bolivia, as there is not a level spot anywhere. The streets are quite steep, much more than San Francisco. The early Spanish colonists set about planning the city, assisted by the religious orders, and the Indians went to work building it.

Much of their work is still visible today in Quito’s Old Town. There are many fine churches, in fact sometimes one per block! There are narrow streets of shabby but originally elegant colonial houses. The 20th century saw the rapid growth of Quito, and the city has now sprawled out far past the original colonial center. It is in this “New Town” that most good hotels, restaurants, and entertainment are located.

We started our tour at the Independence Plaza, flanked by the cathedral, the Presidential Palace, the Municipal building, and the Archbishop’s Palace. Near the Plaza, we walked to see the Church of La Campania de Jesus and the Church of San Francisco, one of the great religious buildings of the New World. Its impressive façade and atrium lead to its gilded interior, Baroque influenced by Moorish style, with winged Virgin of Quito at its main alter. Fabiano explained that the first church was where the poor people attended, and the fancy golden church was for the rich. While we admired the beautiful gold décor at San Francisco, we thought the other church felt more comfortable. We could see there is a definite class system in Ecuador, with blue-eyed Spanish descendants from Andalucía being the upper class and the Incan descendants as lower class.

Fabiano explained that the colors of the Ecuadorian flag signified a woman with a yellow dress and the blue for blue eyes. This same flag represents Ecuador, Columbia, and Venezuela. Fabiano emphasized that Quito should not be judged by the older neighborhood, which is being revitalized. He said an American investor could find this area a “gold mine.” There was much construction with big machines and many laborers going on near the church and Fabiano explained a new subway is being built. He added that there had been bones and other historic relics found at the Site, but the whistleblower who leaked the photos was fired and the construction continued.

We returned to the Plaza for an al fresco lunch, people-watching the locals and other tourists. I ordered quinoa soup which was delicious. Fabiano sat with us to eat and when we offered to buy his lunch he laughed and said, “You have already paid for it!” His English is very good and he lived in the US for a few months. He said it was difficult to get a visa then and nearly impossible now with the new US President.

We wanted to see a place the girls would enjoy, so climbed back into the van and drove to a hill high above the city. The hill is called El Panecillo, meaning a small piece of bread.

Statue Virgen de Quito

In 1976, the Spanish artist Agustín de la Herrán Matorras was commissioned by the religious order of the Oblates to build a 45-meter-tall stone monument of a Madonna which was assembled on a high pedestal on the top of Panecillo. It is made of seven thousand pieces of aluminum. The virgin stands on top of a globe and is stepping on a snake, which is a classic Madonna iconography. Less traditional are the wings.

Locals claim that she is the only one in the world with wings like an angel. According to a bronze placard affixed to the monument, the woman represented by the statue is the Woman of the Apocalypse, as described in the Book of Revelation (12:1–18).

As soon as she saw the statue, Madison shouted, “Can we climb inside?” And indeed, we all climbed up the spiral staircase, pausing often to catch our breath, past many paintings to enter a small round room with windows overlooking the city. The views were spectacular with a 360-degree span, so we could look at the two Andes mountain ranges and three volcanoes surrounding the city.

Back on the van, we drove about 16 miles north of town to the Equatorial Monument, which marks the Middle of the World, latitude 0, where you can stand with a foot in each hemisphere. We learned that since the invention of the GPS, it was discovered this center is actually 250 yards off the equator, so we drove five minutes more to Inti Nan Museum, the actual equator site. This place is a tourist attraction and a mini-carnival of sorts with different interactive activities, such as having your photo taken with a foot in each hemisphere and watching water swirl clockwise and counterclockwise down a sink drain on either side of the equator, demonstrating the Coriolis Effect. We tried walking down the center line of the equator with our eyes closed and found it very difficult to keep our balance. We all got into enjoying the experience and had great fun.

The van took us through heavy rush hour traffic back to our hotel. It was interesting to watch the very crowded public buses as well as many personal vehicles navigate to get through the traffic jams. We had some time to rest at the hotel before dinner, but the girls were adventurous and found a lovely room at the top of a spiral staircase which had big picture windows looking out over the city. The view was wonderful during the day and again at night with all the twinkling lights. The hotel had a relaxing area for lounging complete with free coffee and tea and cookies. We sat and chatted there until the girls showed us yet another retreat with an entire wall of vines and plants—so peaceful and relaxing.

We walked a short way down the block to Restaurante Casa Los Geranios for a lovely full-service dinner of Latin American Cuisine. Everyone found something to their liking. After a leisurely meal, we walked back to the hotel for a final look at the city lights from the upper room, then headed to welcome beds after a busy day of touring. We are up early in the morning.

Day 3 Wednesday, July 19: Baltra Island and the Santa Cruz II

We are up early for a quick 6:00 breakfast at the hotel and then meet our driver at 6:30 for our private transport to the airport. We again can see the surrounding Andes mountains and volcanoes as well as the busy rush hour traffic.

We unload at the airport and are handed off by our driver to the staff of the ship who will assist with our check-in. One of the first stops is to pay the $20 per person Ingala Transit Control Card fee, which requires showing your passport. Tammi suddenly realizes she left her passport and money in the hotel room safe. I report this to the man in charge of the ship crew and a few quick phone calls are made to arrange for a taxi to pick up the items from the hotel and deliver them to Tammi at the airport. We will have time for this before she needs to check in. Meantime, Jami and Brandon are paying their $20 fees, not expecting to have to do so because we thought this was already covered when we paid for the trip. I called the travel agent who confirmed the fee was not paid in advance. We lined up to check in and were still in line when Tammi came in from outside the airport, having met her taxi, which cost $40, but worth it to have her documents in time for the flight. She paid her fees, we all checked our bags and headed to the boarding area.

We people watch as we waited. There is a mixture of locals who live in Guayaquil and Baltra as well as many tourists arriving for various cruise expeditions. This flight will stop first in Guayaquil, then continue to Baltra., a small island with an airport. Baltra is designated as the place for tourists to land, be processed, pay their $100 per person park entrance fee, and board the ship. Jami and Brandon were delighted to learn that the entrance fee for the girls was only $50 each, so they recovered the funds they unexpectedly paid at departure from Quito.

Our flight departed Quito at 9:40 and arrived in Baltra at 12:15. Since the islands are 600 miles west of mainland Ecuador, there is a one-hour time zone change from Quito. (So now we are on Wyoming time!) We were not served any food or drinks on the flight. On arrival, we waited around the airport for about 30 minutes so everyone could collect luggage and pay the park entrance fee.  Our ship is the Santa Cruz II.

 The guides gathered the 90 passengers and their luggage. Earlier at Quito airport check in, we were provided with stickers to put on our chests indicating the name of our ship as well as luggage tags with cabin identification which we attached to the bags, so now the bags could be loaded on an inflatable zodiac panga to be delivered to our cabins. It was fun to watch the crew load the bags, crisscrossing them as they stacked as though they were bales of hay.

The luggage zodiacs headed for the ship while we put on life vests to be loaded ourselves, 16 to a zodiac, along with a naturalist and zodiac driver, for transport to the vessel. We walked down a ramp at the pier to climb aboard the zodiac and took our seats around the edge. We were assisted in the transfer from the zodiac to board the ship, passing through the reception area where we were directed to our cabins.

The travel agent did a great job selecting cabins. Because we had signed up so far ahead of time, she was able to secure three consecutive cabins, a double for me and David next to a double for Jami and Brandon, which had a door connecting to the triple cabin for Tammi, Madison, and Emma. Each cabin had its own bathroom with shower. There is a large picture window to look out over the water. We have a closet and a desk and there is room for the luggage to be stored under the bed. The cabin steward provides service three times daily to tidy up, sweep up the sand, replace used towels and leave chocolate at the turn-down service.

We took off our life vests. The luggage was already in the cabins, so we could begin to get settled, and were doing that when the announcement came over the PA system that lunch was ready.

We were very hungry by now and ready to find our way downstairs to the dining room. The staff set up a table for seven which we used for each meal on the ship. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet style.

At lunch, we were handed a formal menu with several choices of entrees for dinner including a kid’s choice such as pizza, hamburger, or chicken nuggets. The menu featured freshly caught fish and seafood, and we ordered off the menu to tell the wait staff our preferences for appetizer, entrée, and dessert for dinner. Dinner is served formally. The Cordon-Bleu trained chef is from Austria and was very present and visible in the dining room, often carving, supervising, or assisting in other ways. There were many choices at the buffet areas both at breakfast and at lunch, and multiple dessert choices at lunch and dinner. We were certainly well fed on this cruise.

We learned that there is a 24-hour beverage station in the library/ lecture hall common area., complete with crackers, cookies, fruit, and other delicious snacks. I felt spoiled to be able to go for a cup of tea any time I wanted. I only wished they had bigger cups! Adults chose their own specialty coffees. The girls tried the hot chocolate and Madison had tea at times too. As soon as we were finished boarding, we felt the ship begin to move. We are heading to North Seymour Island, a great introductory site to the islands and their wildlife, full of bird colonies of blue-footed boobies, two species of frigate birds, and swallow-tailed gulls, as well as sea lions and marine iguanas. 

We put on our life vests—which we put on and take off repeatedly during this trip as safety is a priority. All the adults have red vests, but the smaller ones for Madi and Emma were yellow.

Frigate birds and chicks

Frigate birds

Blue-footed boobies

We are told to gather in the library meeting area, where we are assigned to groups named for Galapagos creatures. Our family is assigned to the Boobies group, which is comprised of three different families. Each time we board the zodiac, we all gather in the library and groups are called by group name to walk down 2 decks to the debarkation area. So about twice a day, sometimes more, our family group of seven put on life vests, gathered in the library, then boarded the zodiac together for the upcoming adventure.

At the disembarkation area, we are taught the transfer process where visitors clasp their left arm with someone on the ship, so that arms are parallel with each person’s hand holding near the elbow of the left arm of the other. As you step down onto the zodiac, while still holding the left arm of the person on the ship, using your right hand, you do the same arm clasp with the naturalist on the zodiac while you step into the zodiac. This keeps you steady as you move between vessels, but David and Brandon wondered how much security was really offered to them as big men by the small stature naturalists on the zodiac.

Much is made about trying to see all the “Galapagos Big 15” creatures during the trip. It is quite simple: The more iconic species you see on the Galapagos Islands, the more rewarding and memorable your experience will be. The vast diversity of animal life is what attracts visitors to this remote paradise, impressing explorers from all over the world. The Big 15 includes:

Galapagos Albatross

Blue-Footed Booby

Nazca Booby

Flightless Cormorant

American Flamingo

Frigate birds: Great and magnificent

Galapagos Hawk

Land Iguana

Marine Iguana

Santa Fe Land Iguana

Galapagos penguin

Galapagos Sea Lion

Galapagos Fur Seal

Galapagos Giant tortoise

We are given a handsome souvenir coffee table book with photos and comprehensive descriptions of each of the Big 15, and there is a sort of contest to see who can see them all. The naturalists are quick to point them out when they are sighted. The book includes a map showing which critters are apt to be seen on which island. Darwin’s finches are not included in the Big 15, but the many varieties are sure to be seen nearly everywhere.

The islands appear as a very dry desert, with stark volcanic landscapes covered with forests of prickly cactus plants, soaring tall as trees. Each island harbors different natural treasures, and each day or sometimes twice a day, our ship transports us to another island. Fearless, fantastic animals appear at every turn. A Galapagos mockingbird may be pecking at your shoelaces, oblivious to your size. On Espanola, the pungent scent of musk assails your nostrils and the guide leads around a harem of female sea lions, jealously guarded by a muscular bull. 

On Santiago, ancient black lava stones crackle underfoot as you hike to rocks where marine iguanas dive to nibble on green algae, while vibrant orange and red Sally Lightfoot crabs scuttle into crevices. Blue footed-boobies plunge into the Pacific Ocean to pursue schools of fish, and red-billed tropic birds call out in rapid screeches. Flightless cormorants jackknife into the fertile waters, where sea turtles and mantra rays gently glide. 

During the mating season, the male frigate bird inflates his throat to proportions of a huge scarlet balloon to advertise his excellent breeding credentials. (I bought a souvenir shirt with a picture of these colorful birds.) One of the excursions today is walking along paths that involve uneven terrain. The trail turns inland to reveal the largest nesting site in the Galapagos of the “Magnificent Frigate Bird.” (There are two types of frigates, “magnificent” and “great”.) These huge dark acrobats have a six-foot wing-span and the males puff up their puffed-up scarlet throat sacks and sit precariously perched in low bushes to watch over their equally large chicks.

We rode the zodiac back to the ship, where we had a safety drill to learn stations for evaluating the ship, followed by an introduction to the captain and crew and further information about what to expect on the cruise in general and for tomorrow specifically. The evening-before briefing became standard operation, along with printed daily itineraries posted for each new day. The Santa Cruz II has two bars, one located on the Panorama Deck with access to an outdoor seating area. We developed the custom of meeting there each evening for drinks, to review the day, including photos, munch on popcorn and wait for dinner to be announced. David brought a bottle of rum on board, and at first tried to sneak glasses with ice, but soon learned that the bar would provide the necessary set ups.

Day 4, Thursday, July 20: Isabella Island, Punta Vicente Roca, AM and Fernandina Island, Punta

Espinosa, PM Wakeup call is at 6:45, and folks are invited to the Jacuzzi deck where snorkeling equipment is handed out. David and I brought our own, including wet suits, so Jami and Brandon went to get gear for their family. Breakfast is at 7:15 and zodiac departure is at 8:15. We repositioned during the night travelling northward and a bit west to the largest island, Isabella, which is shaped like a sea horse. Since there is no landing site at this location because of the high rocky cliffs along the shore, the coastal expedition this morning is by zodiac. The naturalist guides explain the dramatic geology of the area, with the remains of lava flows and tuff stone layers. This is the nesting place for the flightless cormorants, the only existing marine birds in the world other than penguins that have changed their condition from flying birds to diving birds. Wildlife here also includes sea lions, Galapagos fur seals, Galapagos Penguins, blue-footed and Nazca boobies and noddy terns. This area has a very rich marine life and is seasonally visited by green sea turtles and ocean sunfish (mola mola).

This is the perfect spot for the first outing in the glass-bottomed boat. Tammi, Jami and the two girls joined the group and enjoyed looking down into the water to see sea turtles and fish. The had a grand time, and Tammi encouraged me to try it next time. The sea conditions today were such that snorkeling was allowed along the cliffs of the partly-sunken Ecuador Volcano, near the northern tip of Isabella Island. Tammi stayed on the Santa Cruz II with Emma. Jami and Brandon, Madison, David, and I went out to the snorkeling site. I had my gear on and went into the water, but felt the strong ocean current was pulling me under the zodiac, so I decided to climb back on board. David helped me get back up the ladder, then went off to snorkel on his own. He reported seeing lots of trumpet fish, some sea turtles and a couple of small sharks.

Madison was brave enough to try snorkeling with her parents. Jami and Brandon went into the water together with Madison, who gave it a good effort and went off away from the zodiac toward the cliffs, but finally decided to stop and Jami and Brandon brought her back to the zodiac to sit with me. Even with her wet suit on, she had goose bumps and I wish I had known that Jami brought towels. I cuddled together with Madison to help her get warm. We sat together on the rocking zodiac and even though I had taken my sea-sick pill, waiting an hour moving up and down caused me to feel ill. Jami and Brandon continued to snorkel and despite the chilly water, were the last to come back on board. After snorkeling, on the way back to the ship, we were thrilled to see another of the Big 15, a large Galapagos hawk, which had grabbed a sea gull and was sitting on a crag, pulling feathers from its still- alive victim, and eating its flesh. We also saw thousands of sea iguanas scrambling up the cliffs. It is amazing that they can climb so well because the cliffs are so sheer and steep and the iguanas have only claws for climbing. 

We watched pelicans fishing. Pelican bills are the largest of any species, and they use the pouch to scoop up fish from the water.

 There were many fur seals as well as the ever -present sea lions, and dozens of sea turtles quite visible under the water.

When we return to the ship for lunch, I was ready to lie down when we got back to the ship to sleep off my motions sickness. I did not try to eat lunch. At 2:00 the girls went to a cooking lesson for the young explorers, where they put on gloves and made banana splits, complete with gooey toppings, chocolate sauce, and a cherry on top.

At 3:00 we were back on the zodiac, heading to Fernandina for a dry landing on the youngest island of  the archipelago. We disembark for a mile-long walk over dark lava. As the youngest island, Fernandina has an amazing combination of barrenness and a lot of wildlife. Having no introduced mammals, Fernandina boasts a unique environment with the highest density of marine iguanas sharing their space with sea lions, Sally-Lightfoot crabs, hawks, penguins, and the flightless cormorant.

The most abundant and visible critters were the sea lions. They have absolutely no fear of people and the sea lion pups remind us of puppies, as they are so friendly and playful, on land and in the water. They are curious and come up close to check us out. They frolic around like a marine welcoming committee. We were able to watch one nursing, making loud sucking noises and grunting with pleasure. His mom kept turning and rolling over, and the little one would just wiggle around to the opposite side, snuggling up close and finding another nipple to attach to.

The bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs are everywhere, skittering across the sand and ricks. 

Our naturalist guide discovers a small hermit crab inside a shell and encourages the crab to come out of hiding by  blowing into the shell. She explains that the crab reacts to the carbon dioxide in her breath, so withdraws from its hiding place. We all gathered around to see him resting on her gloved hand.

 

Later, back on ship, Emma was very interested in watching the process by which each evening, the ship crew used a crane to lift the zodiacs out of the water and stack them on the upper deck.

Day 5, July 21 Friday: Isabela Island, Tagus Cove AM, and Urbina Bay PM

On the northwest of Isabela Island lies the secluded Tagus Cove, which provided a favorite anchorage for pirates and whalers over the centuries. Old graffiti can still be seen on the high cliffs. The vegetation in the area includes fragrant Palo Santo trees. These white-barked trees are leafless and look dead most of the year. They leaf and spring back to life in the wet season.

Tagus Cove is the remains of an old crater, which forms a protected landing area. It is easy to see why former seamen found this a place of refuge. We went ashore by way of a “wet landing”, which means you actually step from the zodiac into the ankle-deep or more water and wade to shore. 

We formed a line to hike an uphill path, soon coming to another crater lake, perfectly round and filled with sea water. Even though it is about 100 feet above sea level, apparently the sea water seeps in somehow. This lake is called Darwin Crater. There is a pretty look-out point and we stopped for photos.

We continued up the “medium difficulty” trail, urged on by our naturalist guide, climbing ever higher and higher, being drawn by the promise that the view at the end is worth the climb. Darwin is one of six volcanoes, a remarkable contrast to the lower islands to the east of the archipelago. Looking out at it, we did have quite a vista at the top of our climb. Our guide complimented us for being the only group to complete this endurance test. I must give Madi and Emma credit for keeping up with the group. They were troopers! We walked back down the trail and boarded the zodiac for a coastal ride along the cliffs on the way back to the ship.

At 10:30, we went out for a snorkeling trip from the zodiac. I put on my gear and got into the water, but again felt the current seeming to pull me under the zodiac, so decided I was not a strong enough swimmer and David and Brandon helped me back into the boat. The two of them snorkeled together and reported seeing lots of fish and sea turtles.

Other options today included kayaking, and Jami took Madison out. This was Jami’s first time to ever use a kayak and they had a fun time. We have told our guide that Emma wants to see penguins and the guide promised we would be successful today. We were beginning to worry, but late in the afternoon, as we were back on the zodiac for a coastal tour of the island, the guide spotted two penguins on the side of the cliff, nearly hidden by an overhang. Emma squealed with joy and the skillful zodiac driver kept repositioning the vessel so that we had multiple glimpses of the penguins, who were walking along a ledge, partially hidden, and then appearing again.

We returned to the ship for lunch and at 2:30 the Young Explorers went to a towel-folding class. Later this afternoon is a wet landing at Urbina Bay, located at the foot of Alcedo and Darwin volcanoes west of Isabela island, the result of an uplifting of the ocean in 1954. We played in the sand and sea here, the girls drawing hearts in the sand. David found a long stick and began writing in the sand and the girls soon got into the act. We swam and snorkeled from the beach and I was able to successfully snorkel out  to see some fish and turtles in the deeper water. There were also many Rays in the water. I saw them while snorkeling, and people on the beach were excited about seeing them from shore and followed them along, taking pictures as they swam. They looked like dark circles rippling in the water.

We also walked on a trail from the beach through some tall grass to see huge iguanas and land birds. There was a variety of vegetation and it seemed no matter what the plant, its flowers were yellow. We also saw long-legged wading birds like flamingoes and stilts.

We had drinks on the deck at sunset.

Day 6, Saturday, July 22: The town of Puerto Ayora and Charles Darwin Research Center

Today we will spend the day off the ship to visit the town of Puerto Ayora. We begin as usual with life vests and a zodiac ride, except this time we have a dry landing at the city pier. We board buses to drive through town to the Charles Darwin Research Station, which is a biological research station operated by the Charles Darwin Foundation. It is located on the shore of Academy Bay in the village of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos Islands, with satellite offices on Isabela and San Cristóbal islands.

Ecuadorian and international scientists work on research projects for conservation of the terrestrial and marine ecosystems of the Galapagos Islands. These are the headquarters of scientific investigation, conservation, and the national park administration.

We walked through the grounds of the center, led by our naturalist, who explained what we were seeing. A major project is working to restore the giant tortoises to the islands. Many areas of the center are dedicated to breeding, hatching, and raising the babies until they are three years old, when they can be released in the wild, back on the various islands. About 7,000 babies have been released, but they do not start mating until they are 25 years old, so there is a continuing need for breeding.

We toured the center, looking at many pens full of baby tortoises. The guide told us about Lonesome George, the oldest living giant tortoise who recently died. He was brought from a zoo outside the Galapagos and was active in breeding, which encouraged other males to become more active and increase the tortoise population. He is considered a sort of folk hero.

The research station is also home to an impressive giant prickly-pear cactus forest that is home to many land birds.

 Later, we drove by bus to the highlands above the city to explore a working local ranch and coffee plantation called Rancho Fortiz. We were served a generous buffet lunch in the covered outdoor dining hall.

 After lunch, we watched how coffee is roasted and processed. Emma and Madison were invited to push the large manual coffee grinder. It took both of them pushing on the long arm of the mill to get it turning.

They were the stars of the show.

The ranch has a large swimming pool and fields of grazing cattle shared by giant tortoises. We could observe and photograph these slow-moving creatures in their natural habitat. 

We also saw displays of the giant tortoise shells.

We boarded the buses and returned to town where we were now free to walk through town, do some shopping or sight-seeing and catch the zodiac back to the ship later this evening.

Our group shopping was with the five women. Brandon was researching a way to make a phone call to his parents. (Somehow, he was thinking we would return home on Monday when it will actually be Tuesday, so he needs to make plans about dog-sitting and delivering his vehicle to the Gillette airport.)

David was looking on his own for an Ecuadorian soccer team football (soccer) jersey. The girls quickly found what they wanted to spend their shopping allowance on. Each chose a stuffed animal—a penguin, of course, for Emma, and because Madison’s favorite animal is a lion, she chose a large sea lion with a mane. They were both delighted with their treasurers, and both had some money left and chose clothing. Madison got some cute leggings and a top. Emma found a souvenir tank top with photos of sea lions. Jami and Tammi each bought silver jewelry. I did not spend money in town as I had my eye on the tee shirt at the ship gift shop which had pictures of bright red-throated frigate birds. I saw one of the soccer jerseys David wants, but did not buy it because I thought he may have found one on his own shopping trip.

Having phoned his parents, Brandon came and found us, worried that we were late catching the zodiac back to the boat, so we scurried down to the dock. One zodiac was leaving but there was yet another to come, so when we found David waiting at the dock without purchase of a jersey, I took him back up the street to the shop I found to buy the jersey. We bought that largest size they had for David but did not buy one for Brandon as we did not know whether it would fit.

We all made it back to the ship without causing a delay for a zodiac. Because we were close to town, the ship brought a live band on board for evening entertainment before we pulled out of port. They were good performers, but all of us were tired enough we ate dinner, had a goodnight drink and headed for bed.

Day 7, July 23, Sunday: Post Office Bay, Champion Islet, and Punta Cormorant.

Wakeup call at 6:15 this morning for a 7:30 departure and wet landing at Post Office Bay. This area has a long history dating back to the 19th century when whalers began using a wooden barrel to leave mail for other passing ships to pick up and deliver to their homeland. Since then, visitors have carried on this tradition, leaving post cards without stamps to be delivered by other visitors, who sort through the cards, selecting any from their hometown to hand deliver when they return.

We all took post cards to leave in the barrel and after the wet landing on the green olivine beach, trooped together to the barrel site, where three staff each took a huge stack of post cards from the barrel and read aloud destinations so folks in the crowd could claim and take home to deliver. Alas, none were from AZ or Wyoming. But for others, maybe this will make an instant friend who has shared the Galapagos experience!

The term olivine refers to tiny pale green lava crystals scattered everywhere on the beach, like tiny grains of sand. Our naturalist placed a pinch of back sand in each of our palms, so we could stir through it to find the green crystals. We took a hike up to a volcanic cone and reached the Baroness’s Tower, from where the entire northern shore of the island can be seen. (There is an entire dark history about an unsolved murder of Baroness Eloise von Wagner. A movie was made about the event called the Galapagos Affair: Satan Came to Eden). We had time to swim and snorkel and kayak off the beach, then returned to the ship by 11 for an educational Galapagos lecture and lunch.

At 2:30, a zodiac ride took us to explore the north shore of Floreana along narrow channels teeming with life. 

Rays, turtles, and sea lions were seen gently swimming next to the zodiac. There was opportunity for deep-water snorkeling as well as rides on the glass bottom boat. Tammi, Jami, I and the girls took the glass-bottom boat. 

We saw many kids of fish and had a great time, not realizing that Tammi, seated back near the motor was breathing fumes, so by the time we got back to the ship, the rocking in addition to the odor from the fumes had her vomiting. She went to bed to sleep it off.

At 4:00, we went to Punta Cormorant for another wet landing and yet another olivine beach. We hiked around two lagoons with flamingoes and saw many birds. The nearby beach is a turtle nesting area. 

We took photos wading in the surf and had fun drawing hearts in the sand before returning to the ship at 7:00 for Happy Hour, the Departure Briefing at 8:00 and dinner at 8:30.

Following dinner, there was a Farwell Cocktail Hour and then time to settle the bill.

Day 8, Monday, July 24: Departure Day

Wakeup call at 7:00. Bags outside cabins by 7:15 and breakfast at 7:15.

8:00 Vacate the cabin.

8:15, Group viewing of the slide show of photographs taken by the ship’s professional photographer.

Everyone is supposed to receive an electronic copy of these photos in a couple of weeks after returning home.

9:00 Final transfer by zodiac for a dry landing and transfer to the airport on Baltra Island. Flight leaves Baltra at 11:15AM, arrives Quito 3:45 PM (One-hour time change) Brandon, Jami, and the girls had lunch on the plane. Upon arrival at Quito, we collected our luggage to go to stay at the Wyndham Hotel until our international flight this evening at 11:55 PM. We walked outside and looked around the hotel pickup area until we saw the Wyndham sign and boarded the shuttle to the hotel.

Even though we had confirmed reservations, the hotel could not find us in their system. I phoned the travel agent who asked to speak with the hotel clerk. They sorted it out and the hotel said they would find us rooms. David and I had not eaten lunch, so we headed to the restaurant to eat while the hotel found rooms. But we did not communicate well with Jami and Brandon, so Jami asked what the plan was. Brandon was concerned about leaving the luggage unattended and made sure the bellman secured it. Then they joined us in the dining room, and we all had something to eat.

When we were finished eating, the hotel had arranged for our rooms, and we all went upstairs to rest and hang out until time to go to the airport. Jami discovered that the flight had been delayed an hour, so they were concerned about making an even tighter connection in Houston to the Denver flight. The hotel had a nice visitor lounge with coffee, soda. and snacks. Breakfast was to be included in our rooms, but of course we were not staying overnight, so they offered to make sack lunches for us, which we agreed would be a good idea.

Finally, it was time to go to the airport, so the shuttle took us back, luggage and sack lunches in hand. I searched around for the United check-in counters, but Jami and Brandon found them first. It was very crowded. We got in one of the very long lines. David thought he found a shorter one, so he and I waited there. Of course, Brandon got through first! David and I checked in and met the rest of the group in the boarding area at the gate. We gave hugs and said our goodbyes here because we knew we would not have time in Houston. July 25, Tuesday: Arriving home

Since the plane boarded an hour late, it is 1 AM and the day is now Tuesday. The time delay continues to be a concern for Brandon. It would not be good to miss that connecting flight to Denver! The flight from Quito went well. They even served us dinner. We made it to Houston, cleared immigration, using the new electronic kiosks, then got our bags to clear customs. Tammi forgot she had an apple from the sack lunch, so had an observer accompany her to her bag to watch her dispose of it. David and I had more time to connect to the flight to Phoenix, so Brandon’s crew raced ahead to the airport shuttle train to their terminal and thankfully were able to board their plane. Jami said they were the last to board. Their connecting flight from Denver was not a problem and the Wyoming crowd safely arrived in Gillette around noon.